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Discounter Discoveries – Lidl Wine Tour
The period between Christmas and Easter is almost “close season” for the wine trade, so it is good to see the bi-monthly Lidl Wine Tours continuing as normal.
January’s “Tour” goes to Italy and offers one or two unusual options which lovers of that country’s wines will welcome.
I have sampled about half of the list and discuss below those that stood out for me – regrettably, my bottle of the highly rated Lugana was defective.
Overall, the wines I sampled were sound and workmanlike rather than spectacular – but it is still good to see keenly priced but reliable wines at this difficult time.
As usual, all are available while stocks last – and that often varies from store to store.
Once again, pictures and hyperlinks are included where possible to make it easier to track down the wine in question.
Starting with a sparkle
2021 Malvasia Colli Piacentini Frizzante (£6.99 and 11.5% abv):
Malvasia gives its name to a range of (probably unrelated) grapes as different as the rich Malmsey of Madeira and this slightly sparkling white from Colli Piacentini in Emilia-Romagna.
Frizzante, incidentally, is a gentle form of sparkling wine that has less than half the pressure of spumante.
Here, it, provides palate cleansing, fun wine that does not take itself too seriously.
Perfumed and uncomplicated, the wine displays light peach, apple and grapefruit flavours with modest acidity and sherbet based liveliness – and, of course – those tongue tingling bubbles.
Familiar name in an unfamiliar setting.
2021 Viognier Terre Siciliane (£6.99 and 12.5%:
Sicily is not an obvious place for the Rhone Valley’s (and elsewhere’s) classic viognier – and, in truth, the resemblance is only slight.
While there are tropical fruit and creamy aspects here, this has neither the weight nor the viscosity of, say, French versions.
Nevertheless, it is a pleasant, floral and peach centred white wine that will work perfectly well as informal drinking.
Medium bodied with savoury edges, it has pear and ripe melon flavours built into a smooth creaminess that also contains hints of mace and herbs – all given added zing by its firm acidity.
My favourite white
2021 Zibibbo (£7.99 and 12.5%
Zibibbo is the Sicilian name for Muscat of Alexandria – a variety that seems to have originated in North Arica (as the second part of its name implies).
It is more floral on both nose and taste buds – and with firmer marmalade influences – than better known muscats and appears to be a parent of Argentina’s torrontes grapes.
Just off-dry with inviting aromas, this example exhibits pithy orange, mango, red apple and melon flavours partnered by gentle grapefruit acidity and a really fresh mouth-feel.
Next up is a rosé
2021 BIO Bardolino DOC Chiaretto (£7.49 and12.5%:
Around Lake Garda what is called rosato elsewhere in Italy is known as chiaretto and this biologically produced example is from Bardolino.
It probably uses the traditional Valpolicella grapes (possibly with less corvina) and really surprised me with its clarity, fresh and diverse constituents.
Very clean with a lively prickle, it features herbal raspberry and cherry flavours combined with suggestions of chocolate, nuts and savoury spices along with tart acidity – but balancing savoury spices.
Over to the reds
2021 Passamano Frappato Syrah (£6.99 and 14%)
Sicily’s frappato grape is well known for the light bodied wine it produces but here it is given extra depth by blending – although its partner in this case is syrah rather than the more usual nero d’avola.
It is easily spotted on the shelf, however, by its white, paper wrapped, bottle.
With appealing savoury aromas and, as expected, light in texture, the result has sweet edged strawberry and blackcurrant flavours with well-judged tannin and acidity plus hints of cinnamon, mint and pepper.
Back on the Mainland
2020 Puglia Nero di Troia (£6.99 and 13.5%):
Perhaps because of its lower yields, Nero di Troia is not as well known as those Puglia stalwarts primitivo and negroamaro.
That is a pity because the grape’s power and fruitiness merits appreciably more recognition than is possible in its usual role as a blending partner.
With more depth than the Frappato and a neat mineral twist, it brings us fruity plum and raspberry flavours accompanied by good acidity and a touch of sweetness as well as clove and dark chocolate components.
(Not) Foiled Again?
Did you know that the foil around the cork and neck of sparkling wine bottles was a legal requirement?
No, I didn’t either – but by this time next year, it may not be.
Originally introduced – apparently – to stop mice nibbling corks, this requirement is an EU regulation and could be one discarded by the latest “Retained EU Law” proposals.
Opinions within the UK wine trade seem divided on whether to preserve or ditch the requirement, as this piece in the excellent Drinks Business publication illustrates.
No doubt the debate will rumble on.
After today’s glimpse at Lidl’s latest offerings, we continue the search for budget (but great value) wines in Monday’s Top Tip selections. See you then.
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Brian Elliott
Brian Elliott is an established wine journalist, taster, judge and writer with a weekly column in Scottish newspapers.
Comments
17 Comments
Just done my own review of these Brian: https://medium.com/@tomsk71/lidls-italian-wine-tour-730125449413
Yes I saw that review and pleased we are in accord over the Nero di Troia.
Seems to be a new “arrangement ” at Lidl for selling off unsold Wine Tour stock to free-up the wooden crates. Used to be everything was reduced to £3.99 but now depending on original pricing it can be £5.99, £7.99 or even £9.99 in one of my branches … all in metal display trays
and indicated with a hand written label !!! But there was a lot of bottles to choose from. I keep the weekly magazines to know what original prices were but likely will buy less when reductions are not as attractive.as before.
MidWeeker Chris B mentioned that change on Friday and you can see that a blanket “clearance price” of £3.99 regardless of original price, could be a simplification too far. Chris asked what alternative strategies people were using, so feel free to suggest other ways to optimise value for money.
I have concentrated on Lidl for some years so I know what suppliers they favoured and at £3.99 it was easy to optimize one’s purchase and so I built up a stock. Not so easy with the whites as they fade quickly unless they have some acidity. So in the “Winter Tour sell off” I grabbed the Vicarius, the Cabriz, the Prosecco Brut for whites. The reds are my favorites and the Monsaraz seemed to me to be outstanding so I concentrated on that. I tried the Medalla Real which was lovely but to me it was inferior to the Portuguese red.
I have yet to try the Lidl Italian tour wines and hope to report back on 18th March.
I suspect my love affair with Lidl has cooled and suspect I need to see what Aldi can offer. Does anyone have any thoughts to offer regarding Aldi wines?
Picking up on you final sentence Chris, Aldi and Lidl both have sound wine ranges initiated in each case by an excellent buyer (now both promoted and moved on). Subjectively, I feel that Lidl’s range has more structure with reliable core wines supplemented by the Wine Tour every other month to keep things fresh. That said, Aldi also sell some terrific wines (Cremant from Jura is terrific value) but seem to have a major refresh twice a year. The good news is that the first 2023 refresh is due next month. Howeevr, the age of the £3.99 bargain has, I fear, now passed everywhere.
Thank you Brian for your personalised response. I still have to delve into Aldi and now the blighters have built a new store about 3 miles from my house. I am being targeted! I will now have to investigate and study the offers and pig in once I have some shelf space!
I note however Lidl have struck back positively in 3 ways. First they have set lower pricing points on their Wine Tour offerings and I hope they keep this initiative going forward. It is massive because remaining wines will be reduced bi-monthly by £1 to £2 a bottle. It also means that I can try them at full price and if they appeal I can stock up 2 months later.
Secondly Lidl launched their “Deluxe” brand of wine. These look absolutely cracking and remember I set my bar at 88 Parker Points. Google these and you will see many of the “Deluxe” range meet my 88 bar and some meet 87 which is amazing at their modest pricing.
Finally Lidl have several stunning new wines in their Basic Range. There is a beautiful Italian Chianti Riserva Corte Alle Mura at £6.49 with 92 Parker Points. If Y
you need a white, try the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, at £7.49 with 90 Parker points
I’m off now to Waitrose for the special offers that only occur twice a year and I can get up to £7 a bottle reduction on wines, bringing them down to £10 a bottle and if I am lucky I might get a 90 point wine and that sums up polar offerings on the UK market as I perceive things
So here are my thoughts on Waitrose Escarpment Pinot Noir 2020. 90 pointer (well I thought 88) reduced by £7 to £10 however only for a few days due to Easter. The wine is lovely but not to mind a bargain. Aldi and Lidl I feel do give us bargains even at the full price and even better value when they they give us a couple of quid off at clearances.
So what do you think Brian and what do your subscribers feel?
I am with you on that NZ sauvignon – an excellent example and I feel both discounters are currently strong on Chianti. The parts of Lidl’s De Luxe range I have tried have also impressed – especially the Barossa Shiraz. Waitrose currently have a reduction to £10 on certain wines and that is worth a look (as Richard points out in a reply to another post). Do keep reporting back on what you discover .. Best … Brian
March and April were good months to restock the “cellar” and did make a token trip to Waitrose for some of the £10 Easter bargains that were disappointing and some were clumsy to my palate so I doubt I’ll go back there for wine. Shame really because they do have some excellent foods.
I am having a good study on the net on Aldi and there was an excellent recent article on “Decanter” as well as “the mid week Wines blog”
Today’s bargain haul was 9 bottles of “Lugano from Ca del Lago” from my local Lidl still trying to get rid of their previous Wine Tour “left overs” This was awarded 91 “Bampfield” points so well worth the £5.99 per bottle. Attractive tropical fruit nose reminding me of Honeysuckle, great heft and mouth feel from 13% alcohol, fermented dry however the fruit is still ripe so its perfect also as an aperitif. The palate has minerality, lemons and pears. I don’t remember Lugano producing 90 pointers so a region to watch. Even a suggestion of Hazelnuts!
Changing the subject completely to Brian’s recommendation for the Morrison’s Soave I remember they had a fabulous Soave a year ago at £4.99 and I absolutely adored it so here it is again now under their “Best” brand.
I think I’ll let them bring 6 to me with my weekly shopping. Italian whites are fabulous value right now and their nutty nuances suits whites much better than oak especially for fish.
Lugana at its best is indeed a great wine region with, as you say, an appealing nuttiness often sitting in the background. I agree Italian whites are a great and versatile option at the moment.
Good hunting in Aldi – they have some interesting new additions and some of them will be featured on the website shortly.
Thank you Brian for your personalised response. I still have to delve into Aldi and now the blighters have started to built a new store about 3 miles from my house. I am being targeted! I will now have to investigate and study the fabulous offers and pig in once I have some shelf space!
I note however Lidl have struck back positively in 3 ways. First they have set lower pricing points on their latest Wine Tour offerings and I hope they keep this initiative going forward. Unsold wines will be reduced bi-monthly by £1 to £2 a bottle. It also means that I can try them at full price and if they appeal I can stock up 2 months later.
Secondly Lidl launched their “Deluxe” brand of wine. These look absolutely cracking and I can still set my bar at a decent level as many of the “Deluxe” range meet my 88 bar and some meet 87 which is amazing at their modest pricing.
Finally Lidl have several stunning new wines in their Basic Range. There is a beautiful Italian Chianti Riserva Corte Alle Mura at £6.49 with 92 Parker Points. If you need a white, try the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, at £7.49 with 90 points
I went to Waitrose for the special offers that only occur twice a year and I could get up to £7 a bottle reduction on wines, bringing them down to £10 a bottle and if I am lucky I might get a 90 point wine.
So here are my thoughts on Waitrose Escarpment Pinot Noir 2020. 90 pointer (well I thought 88) reduced by £7 to £10 however only for a few days due to Easter. The wine is lovely if you like syrupy sweet wine but not to mind a bargain.
Similar over sweetened Gaia Malbec very poor value even after they discounted it to a tenner. Surprised at Tim Atkin giving it 92 when IWC said it was just commended. It’s also sickly sweet and would ruin a decent steak however it might suit the cheese course.
Aldi and Lidl I feel do give us bargains even at the full price and even better value when they they give us a couple of quid off at clearances.
Aldi seem to have so many versions of the same grape from the same supplier and even the Decanter team struggled to make sense of what was what and hardly any of the wines seem to be in stock. Many the Aldi offerings are “special Selections” and the website ignores specifying the vintages. I feel we just have to go on your recommendations Brian and Decanter certainly rated their wines very highly although they don’t appear to be in stock in the shop or on their website. Aldi will now no longer deliver wine but they do click and collect and the value on some wines is stunning.
I cut and pasted the top scoring Decanter wines into Aldi’s Grocery website but found it difficult to get a match. The only way to differentiate the Malbecs is by the colour of the label as they are all from the same supplier. I think Decanter said there were 14 Sauvignon Blancs many again from one supplier.
So what do you think Brian can you rise to the challenge and guide us to find good wine? I don’t think it will good for my sanity to go to the store, search the shelves find the correct bottle so best I feel to use their click and collect service and let the grocery staff have the hassle of finding the right bottle
Thanks for your thoughts, Chris., on Lidl, Waitrose and Aldi. Next week, I am taking a look at the Aldi newcomers so that may shed more light on what is available. I will do my best to “rise to your challenge” and the site’s hyperlinks and pictures are designed to help pinpoint the specific wine. Uneven distribution is not something I can do too much about though.
I am currently buying and drinking some lovely Puglia Fiano 2021 from Duca di Sasseta and this vinyard normally reaches 91/100 points .and The massive acidity starts now to calm down in this wine will I hope can put on a couple of points in 2023 before it goes over! It’s remaindered now in Lidl so discounted from £7.99 to £5.99. This wine is honeyed and delish especially in you like things on the dry side.
Hi Chris ….. Glad to hear that the Fiano is currently drinking well and has actually improved since it was first available. It is a nice grape but usually works best as a “latest year available” wine, so you are right to warn that it may well “go over” before too much longer. Strike while the honey is strong.
Another wine Brian you recommended above needing quick drinking to savour it’s splendid youthfulness is the Zibbibo 2021 and despite Lidl’s advice for it to hold for 12 months I would say 6 months. That said it’s a cracker considering Muscat is normally made sweet however harvested early makes it suitable as a bone dry aperitif. Lovely bouquet of marmalade with the complex palate of apricots, apples, pears and peach.
Had it for lunch with salmon fish cakes and mussels!
The Duca di Castelmonte seems to be a very impressive organisation and every wine seems to a winner so far. Perhaps Brian can say more as he keeps recommending their wines and I now expect them to be 90 pointers! Italy is really riding high and this wine is a cracker!
Are you looking for an intense flavour without spending a fortune? I sense that Brian mentioned the Passamano 2021 Frappato Syrah (Syrah in Italy is a major blip that suggests young blood seek change to gain flavour) to try and steer us to a bargain value wine.
I think of Frappato as a thing that a small local group can develop by spreading good grapes on one’s roof and let the sun perform double magic to make great grapes for free.
Regardless this is a lovely concentrated wine we can access for a few extra pennies. Give it an audition or leave all the bottles for Brian and myself to enjoy!
Right on two counts Chris. I do enjoy it and I did recommend it – fifth item on down on this post.
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