In a three year period cumulative UK general inflation rose by 20%.
Concurrent changes in alcohol duty are thought to have doubled that figure for many wines or, at least, pushed it up by half as much again.
Even taking the lower of those combined increases, wine at the broadly accepted 2021 entry point price of £5.99 would now be a whisker below £8.
Making a similar simplistic calculation, wine at the (then) sweet spot around £8 would now be at the £10.40 mark.
Try as I might to find reliable quality wine at £6 or so, I fear that I am on a King Cnut mission (as it is currently represented).
Further evidence that my feet will shortly be very wet, comes in the falling quality of much £5-£7 wine.
Although I do find a few gems (and will keep telling you about them), the number of wines at that price “not of a quality I can recommend” is rising sharply.
The inescapable conclusion is that sooner or later we must recalibrate what can be regarded as the typical price for straight forward, midweek ordinaire.
Those are the wines I have termed “gateway selections”.
They reflect a broad style, and shape decisions about trying more expensive options – or sticking there.
By extension, we probably must also get used to the next level up “Sweet Spot wines” having two digits before the dot.
But, are they worth it? I hear you chorus.
Well here is a selection of the “new” sweet spot wines to help you decide (Spoiler alert: I think they are!).
The images and hyperlinks provided should help you to find them in crowded displays.
Let’s start in Germany
2022 Johann Wolf Pinot Gris (£11.99 at Virgin Wines and 12.5% abv):
I think MidWeekers will be familiar with the joys that pinot gris provides in Alsace but the variety has gained traction on the other side of the Rhine – especially Baden and, in this case, Pfalz.
In a 20 year period plantings quadrupled as German winemakers aimed for drier, age-worthy and more complex offerings.
Building on its floral opening, this example has a backbone of delightful, ripe melon, greengage and apple flavours.
Support comes in the form of an appealing peach based texture with sharp grapefruit acidity to add to its overall zestiness.
Thence to Italy
2023 Castello Banfi ‘Badalei’ Vermentino (from £14 at Majestic and 12.5%):
As we have previously discussed, Majestic Wine sits neatly between supermarket wine offerings and premium wine shops.
It has attractive wine focused stores, offers tasting opportunities and has knowledgeable staff to help buying decisions.
In this Italian white of theirs you encounter pithy but firm grapefruit acidity coupled with a long, lemon influenced, beautifully clean, mouth-feel.
Those subsidiary components provide excellent support to the wine’s principal gentle, red apple, greengage and melon flavours.
Chardonnay with all its sophistication.
2023 Zuccardi Q Chardonnay (£14.50 – instead of £16.50 until 21 April – with a Tesco Clubcard and 13.5%):
Of course white burgundy represents chardonnay in all its glorious pomp, but that does not mean that polished versions with real style are not made in other places.
Argentina’s Uco Valley for instance has elevated vineyards (up to 6000 feet and beyond) and cool nights that provide suitable conditions for impressive chardonnays like this one.
It starts with a sumptuous, traditional buttery nose to accentuate the elegant pear, apricot and citrus flavours.
Then, to join the party, comes firm lemon acidity and gentle oak influences – that add smoothness – followed by a long finish containing chalk, vanilla and herbal elements.
Switching now to reds.
2023 Alain Grignon Reserve Carignan Vieilles Vignes (from £10 at Majestic and 12.5%):
We discussed a week or two back how the combination of older vines and a brilliant winemaker can make the humble carignan grape really sing.
That was in connection with the basic Alain Grignon version but this “Reserve” really underlines the merits of trading up to the next level.
Dark and perfumed it features soft, medium bodied, bramble and mulberry flavours.
Supplementary elements include sharp acidity, modest tannin and an earthy savoury finish with garrigue, cocoa and baking spice constituents.
Exceptional value on promotion
2023 Primitivo Di Manduria (£9 – instead of £13 until 15 April (or 22 April in Scotland) – at Waitrose and 14%):
We know that primitivo from Puglia provides reliable, great value red wines.
However, the limestone based geology around Manduria (on the west of the “Heel of Italy”) allows the variety to scale exceptional heights.
See for yourself (at a below “Sweet Spot” price currently) with this terrific example.
Dark with herbal fragrances, it features dense strawberry, cherry and bramble flavours.
These are coupled with bold acidity, proportionate tannin and touches of chocolate vanilla and cinnamon.
But it’s not just primitivo.
2023 Integro Organic Negroamaro (£13 at Ocado and 13.5%):
Venture a little further east from Manduria and you reach the San Donaci area of the Salento peninsular.
That is where Stefano Girelli and colleagues create this organic wine – which is one of the best negroamaros I have tasted this year.
Medium bodied and smooth, it offers us well defined plum, black cherry and blackberry flavours with a clear sense of purity.
Rich but with good acidity and only limited tannin, it also has clove and vanilla touches.
Finishing in Spain
2022 Bodegas Latue By Latue Sensibel (£11.25 at Vintage Roots and 13%):
Organic specialists Vintage Roots bring us this beautifully smooth red wine from Spain’s La Mancha region.
The name Sensibel is unfamiliar but it does seem to be an obscure local synonym for tempranillo.
Medium bodied but nicely textured, the result contains ripe raspberry, cherry and red plum flavours.
Accompany them are enlivening acidity, firm yet unobtrusive tannin and wild berry aromas.
Everything concludes with mocha, baking spice and herbal elements within a smooth, oaky finish.
My next post (on Monday) contains terrific recommendations of Top Tips for you in the weekly feature of the same name.
32 responses
Unfortunately not all of us have received a 25% increase in income in 4 years so still need to keep searching for reasonable wine in the under £7 price bracket. All recommendations are gratefully received!
I understand, Sue., and will certainly keep trying to find those inexpensive gems. The problem is with quality and I am very reluctant to drop standards to recommend wine I am not fully comfortable with.
I wholeheartedly but reluctantly hear you on this. £10 is the new norm. Yes you can pick up some interesting wines at £7-8 in the likes of Aldi and LIDL but I find myself more often persuading myself that there is depth, complexity or interest (however a recent exception is the bin end Eje Monastrell in LIDL) in these wines. The wines you have presented here are pretty much a reflection of the areas and grapes that I look for so I shall seek them out once pay day is here again!!
Welcome aboard Bruno – and reluctance is something both of us feel. But reality has to kick in sometime. The pre-Easter run of “25% off when you buy six” may help ease that payday pressure – and that Waitrose primitivo is (to me) outstanding value at £9.
Morning Brian
A definitive treatise and statement of fact I’m sure most will agree with including researchers on behalf of your professional contemporaries and soon as is often the case I bet many of your ideas will pop up elsewhere in the press offering similar propositions.
Notwithstanding of course the retail trade does try to help the customer when it offers so much discounting as it does. But it’s not your remit and destiny, as I’m sure we can all agree here, to be constantly talking about deals more than the wine in the bottle. Us hobbyist mid-weekers can flag-up those deals as and when and then we can all have sweet-spot bottles at more affordable prices.
Affordability is my watchword every time, apart from quality and value. They can be lumped together for the individual with judicious shopping. Today’s outstanding imo too, Alain Grignon Reserve at £10, becomes affordable even to me if I’m careful with my overall budgeting and remember there’s very drinkable bottles available now at Lidl in their DeLuxe range that are being offered with 30% off buy-3.
I mentioned already in a previous post I’ll be having some of the South African Paarl, Chenin Blanc. You said the Shiraz was worth a punt, but there’s two of those, Oz and SA, let’s presume the Barossa Valley? And their NZ Awatere DeLuxe SB is terrific at the equivalent of £5.79 again excellent value drinking. I’d like any other mid-weekers to pitch in and say what they like in this range for a heads up so I can indulge on recommendation at around £5 a bottle to balance buying the £10 AG Reserve that I will surely have more of.
Thanks Eddie. Yes it was the Aussie shiraz I had in mind – and I agree about the Awatere sauvignon. I would echo your request – do pitch in, MidWeekers, with ideas for Eddie. That range is a good one.
Eddie,
As I read this I am sipping the Chenin Blanc from the discounted Lidl Deluxe range. Is it not the case that we need guidance on what is drikable and where to buy it. Painful as it is there is circa £4.50 of tax to pay before the producer gets a penny for his endeavours!
Then I’m pleased my offer of personal guidance on the Paarl Chenin is well received Richard. And I personally am happy to follow Brian and others to make affordable purchases myself.
Hi Brian, I agree with your assessment of the situation and am also finding it difficult to find quality at under £10. I am pleased with your assessment of the Integro Negroamaro as I received a bottle as a gift and now look forward to sampling it.
With regard to the Lidl Deluxe offer I had the same question as Eddie about the Shiraz which has now been answered, I will definitely be taking advantage and wondered if anyone has tried the New Zealand Pinot Gris as I might give it a try. I have now adopted a method of saving up and taking advantage of the many offers available but it is tempting to make one off purchases when I run out of favourite wines.
Brian – your columns and recommendations continue to be a beacon of joy and hope.
Thank you
David
Thank you David – and I hope you can weather the current wine storms OK
Me again! Apols ….
Perhaps somewhat presumptuous of me to speak of Lidl without saying we do of course need ”the app” clubcard on our phones to get any of this store’s deals. But I find that no imposition and have made over £100 in savings running total in the last 12 months across a whole range of basic and superior products Lidl offers. I would not have expected less in quality, from a German outfit.
Interesting that DeLuxe range is 33 different bottles that we might miss because they are displayed across all the wine aisle shelves. The app explains what is there including a rare spot … English sparkling, that I’ve never seen and can’t speak about at all.
The Pinot Gris I have had before but like so much I drink I enjoyed it but not enough to return to it time and again. Others that I would never try include SA Pinotage, just don’t prefer that grape, and I don’t do much New World Malbec either. I think this range needs to be carefully investigated because there’s some serious provenance in there as with the SA Paarl Chenin I enjoy so much and as Brian says too the NZ Awatere SB. For the next 2 weeks the Barossa Valley Shiraz can be as little as £4.70 using this offer. That is terrific value if it’s a nice drop!
In light of in my case the state pension increase being swallowed up in its entirety by domestic increases across the board, Susan’s point is perfectly valid for everyone where inflation against earnings is concerned. We have to work so hard making ends meet when we are on fixed incomes over which we have no control. Wine of a decent quality should not be elitist and hard to afford in the UK. The Europeans would never allow it to be so.
Let’s go bonkers.Top quality usually involves paying a bit more.I was pleasantly surprised on my recent visit to independent Wood winters wine shop at the real quality at £10.50.
Olifantsberg Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc,two outstanding Tesco Wines- fair value at £16.50 but good value on present deal.
Then Long Road Syrah ,quite brilliant.
I can recommend the Zucardi Chardonnay which I had last year after being on Saturday morning kitchen but felt 16 was a bit steep , however with the discount I think worth it.
Lots of pear, citrus, stone fruit with good acidity but what struck me was the excellent minerality
Welcome to the Comments section Nimish and thank you for seconding my thoughts on that chardonnay. It is such an elegant all round wine but I didn’t realise Saturday Kitchen had featured it.
Hello Brian
Really interesting point regarding supermarket wine cost.
I’m pretty sure that even in the 90s, supermarket wines of average quality were about £3, with better ones around £6. RPI has roughly tripled in the last 30 years, added to which we’ve had many budgets increasing taxation on wine. I wonder, for how long supermarkets can continue to sell average quality wine in the £5-8 bracket.
The cracks are beginning to show – as the post suggests – but I will keep seeking out wines in that price bracket where I can, However, “hen’s teeth” come to mind?
Some good ones Brian, I visited my new local Majestic which opened last week (I can now walk to it Yippee!!) and they had the AG Reserve on the tasting table, I talked to the majestic guy and he opened the White AG to compare and to be honest, I’d be happy with either, they are both very good, I agree the Reserve has the edge and so it should, but both excellent value I’d say.
I also agree with Paul on the Olifansberg Grenache Blanc and Noir, expensive but worth every penny.
The Primitivo Di Manduria I regularly drink and always hits the spot
I had not met that primitivo before, but was bowled over by the quality on display.
Since we’re hitting the holiday season its worth pointing out that European countries offer better value than ever for the odd ‘duty free’ in a hold bag or boot of the car.
I believe Europe has not had the duty rises we’ve had, not sure about its inflation but I can say that the £9 (converted) bottle of Dolcetto I just brought back from Italy retails at £17 in the UK.
Welcome aboard Nick and good point about personal imports. Will we see a resurgence of Booze Cruises?
Funny you should mention the Booze Cruise Brian. After about 20 years, and now with more time on my hands, I’ve recently returned to quick trips across the Channel from here in East Kent. Although such forays are hardly going to pay for themselves these days, my recent experience suggests that when you can find something you know and love it costs 35-40% less in outlets in northern France. If anyone’s interested, I’ve just finished a blog post on this very topic at https://grapeandhop.blogspot.com/2025/04/reliving-cross-channel-booze-cruise.html (and one of my examples is a quite niche bottle listed by TWS).
Hi Keith,
That brought back memories of working out how many bottles I could bring back in our Citroen Dyane!
Of course The Wine Society set up a French outlet in Montreuil which was very popular with some TWS members, who combined wine buying with a holiday. It was controversially shut down in 2016. The Wine Society have always been careful not to cross subsidise activities, I guess the rationale is that it is unfair for, say, members who do not attend tastings or wine dinners, to partially pay for those that can and do attend. Years ago I used to grumble at the cost of TWS events, having been used to Merchant subsidised ones. But, now older and perhaps wiser, I see that it is the right policy for a mutual society. I now go to quite a few TWS events, but rest assured, fellow TWS midweekers, you are not subsidising my life-style!
Just to back Brian up with the lovely Tesco Zuccardi Q Chardonnay.
Elegant,intense,concentrated- the Q stands for Quality as the vines that had special attention were marked in English with a Q and only the most skilled grape pickers were used.I suppose you could call them the Q gang.
Great to see Tesco aiming for top notch wines and not just cheap bog standard fare.
Thanks for the extra input Paul and I am glad we are at one about its quality.
Having bought three bottles of ”bog standard fare” from the Lidl DeLuxe range, full price £20.97 discounted to £14.67 with these purchases I now allow myself two bottles of top notch, ”Q” level stuff to average the purchase to around £8 to £9 a bottle, £44 for the five.
TWS have just delivered free, but with no discounting, their Generation Series #2 Gentil Hugel Family Alsace cuvée 2021 at £12.50 and the highly regarded Blauer Spätburgunder Pfaltz Weingut Knipser 2019 at £16.50.
I can only offer that this is one way to enjoy different bottles from across many price ranges keeping sensible affordability in mind without going bonkers with the budget!
An interesting very recent comment from the excellent Fiona Beckett ( former wine writer for the Guardian):
“The last Friday 5 contained a mini-survey on what you wanted from this Substack. It was good to find out that I’d got the wine content about right though I was surprised that only 8% agreed with the statement “I’m only here for the bargains.`’ Most of you wanted some better quality wine recommendations and general wine knowhow too.”.
Makes a lot of sense to me.
Proves nothing Paul Davies other than a loaded question to those with more elitist wine interests willing to pay money to Beckett and be involved with her substack and show they are ahead of the discounting game because they have enough money to afford bottles that are other than your ”bog standard fare”.
Maybe try to appreciate the wider picture that I thought MWW tried to address and Brian doesn’t charge for either, and that wine is for everyone including those who can only afford to select from the lower shelves and who need help choosing well for both value and quality … that is still out there! Or indeed waiting on the discounting to have better quality at its cheapest price possible.
Just to say that Fiona Beckett is one of the least pretentious wine writers I have ever come across,her recommendations are mainly of wines in the £8 to £10 bracket with occasional forays into more expensive options.
Her Substack fees are very modest and much,much cheaper than say subscribing to the Guardian,Times,Daily Mail etc.
Agree that wine is for everybody including those looking at the bottom,middle and top shelves.
Have not yet tried the Badalei Vermentino from Banfi, but can wholeheartedly recommend their Pettegola Vermentino which is at Ocado, Sainsbury’s and independents for very much the same price (and actually slightly less with multibuy discounts): https://medium.com/@tomsk71/banfi-la-pettegola-2021-vermentino-1973b373476c
Noting the new Sainsburys 25% off offer (wines under £6 (list price) excluded), thought I’d join the inexpensive quality wine discussion …
The following I have tasted and thought well crafted wines, that I’d be happy to serve to anyone.
Campo Viejo Rioja Blanco White Wine – List £9, current Nectar offer at £7.25;
Sainsbury’s Languedoc White Wine – List £9, current Nectar offer at £7.50;
Sainsbury’s Portuguese Lisboa Red – List £7.75, current Nectar offer at £7.00;
Sainsbury’s Chenin Blanc – – List £8.50, current Nectar offer at £7.25; (Note I drank the 2023, and I think it is the 2024 vintage currently in shops)
Was also impressed with the 2023 TtD SA Sauv Blanc, but note that the 2024 version has come down to 11% ABV, from 13%. So be interested to get feedback on this – if still good, then a win win.
The Bruce Jack Sauv Blanc is listed at £8.75, current Nectar offer at £7.00. Have enjoyed this in the past, but again not the current vintage. I’ve heard Bruce talk on several Zoom events and he is always worth listening to – very knowledgeable, passionate and entertaining. So I always feel comfortable giving his wines a try.
All the Nectar prices quoted above are further reduced by 25%, if you buy 6 or more bottles.
Lastly, Jane MacQuitty has today recommended the 2023 No 1 Beaujolais Village, 13% ABV, currently reduced from £14 to £11, in Waitrose. This Mommessin wine is indeed delicious, just perfect for a family Easter Lunch. It is well within my personal “splurge price range”! I have one in my rack so may well bring that out for our pre-Easter family lunch tomorrow!
I think it’s fair to Say Richard looking back at that exercise a few weeks ago here at MWW for contributors to list half a dozen preferences totalling around £50, of which some are here on your list above, that with the current deal of 25% off buy-6, having decent drinking recommended by Brian and other folks here, time to stock up for cheaper end Easter break drinking. If we should buy 6 for around £32 total, there’s some massive advantage in that taking into consideration especially matters spoken about recently purely about ”fighting back against wine prices” . AND … that leaves some wiggle room for affording a treat of the Waitrose #1 Beaujolais Villages you mention.