Today’s selections hone in on two European countries that vie with one another for which produces the most wine in any given year.
The result is close enough for leadership to change regularly.
One is France (home to our chosen white) while the other (providing the red) is Italy.
Extending the similarities further, both wines have a list price of £8 – although one is currently on offer.
Unlike some of their “shouty” neighbours on the shelf, both are also wines you could easily walk past
However, the red is experiencing attempts at a make-over while the white often feels something of a long-term Cinderella.
So, without further ado, let’s start with the one trying to be re-invented – perhaps with younger drinkers in mind.
The images and hyperlinks provided should help you to find either wine in crowded displays.
The Italian Red
2022 Remastered Sangiovese (£6.50 – instead of £8 until 7 October – at Tesco and 13% abv):
Drinks giants Accolade decided to take a new world approach to selected European wines as the guiding principle of their “Remastered” range.
Bringing “a bold twist to tradition” is their claim and not one I would contest, based on the excellent Fiano recommended by MidWeeker Paul in last week’s “Six for £50” feature.
Smoky with hints of sweetness, this sangiovese from the range secures authenticity by partnering classic sour cherry fruit with suggestions of clove and tobacco.
Those components are supplemented by bright acidity and firm tannin (this is sangiovese after all) but that element is, nevertheless, kept fully in proportion.
And the White
2023 Côtes du Rhône Blanc (£8 at M&S and at Ocado and 13%):
Sadly, Rhȏne Valley whites are often overlooked but the distinctive local grape varieties used there do offer something decidedly different.
In addition, these wines turn the volume up on richness but down on acidity – making them, for instance, versatile food wines.
Delightfully clear with a savoury aura, this example could help boost their popularity with its smooth quince, pear and melon flavours.
Completing the picture, comes evolving lemon acidity and a pebbly, mineral backdrop rounded out by touches of mint.
After today’s laser focus on recommendations, Thursday’s post takes a broader view with something on cheese as well as picking out two wines from the latest Lidl Wine Tour.
13 responses
Quiz open to all!
What wine contains the most number of grape varieties?
What about seven?
Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc
These are all present in Tesco Finest Côtes du Rhone Villages Blanc 2023 £9.
A ” mongrel” of a wine,that should not work,but in the skilled hands of Julie Rouffignac with low yields,it really works.
Peaches,Apricot and Nectarines.I could only detect 3 ,not seven fruits!
Red Chateauneuf du Pape has 13 permitted varieties but I doubt that anybody uses all of them in a single blend.
Which wine has the most grape varieties?
Châteauneuf du Pape is allowed 13. And Perrin’s Château de Beaucastel does contain all of them! In contrast, Château Rayas takes a minimalist view and is 100% Grenache Noir. Rather fancy a blind tasting of them – but they are rather expensive.
Must try the CdR Blanc from M&S, a style I always enjoy. The Clairette and Grenache Blanc give the acidity that these wines need to stop them being flabby. I often buy the Guigal CdR Blanc but it’s now £13+
Good point about avoiding “acidity starved flabbiness” but I think you will approve of this one – and its price label.
I thought Chateau de Beaucastel(Chateauneuf du Papes) used all 13 ?????
Well done Stan (and Richard). I hadn’t clicked that they used all permitted varieties.
Anyone tried the Aldi white wine of the week The Growers Block, £3.00 instead of £7.99 yet ?
I can see that I need to get back to the Cötes du Rhöne with today’s recommended M&S bottle not least because priced at £8.00 it competes well with Rhöne-blend whites from the Languedoc that I’ve been enjoying this year. But given Brian’s comment that “the distinctive local grape varieties used (in the Rhöne valley) do offer something decidedly different” can anyone pinpoint how this wine might differ from a typical Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier blend from Languedoc. For example, Wickhams have a comparable blend from the Languedoc – Domaine les Caizergues Les Bobines Blanc 2023. Is the producer here merely setting out to ape a Cötes du Rhöne wine?
I’m also rather partial to the Paul Mas Reserve Languedoc Blanc at Waitrose – Vermentino plus Marsanne, Grenache Blanc & Viognier which is incidentally down from £9.99 to £7.99 for the next few weeks. I wonder whether the Vermentino gives this wine a certain citrussy zing?
I am a fan of both Rhône whites and those Languedoc whites that share the same grape varieties, and find they overlap in styles. Last year I attended a large tasting of (exclusively) white Rhône wines and found the huge range and proportions of grape varieties slightly overwhelming, especially when trying to categorise styles by blends. However I did pick up that wines that had some Clairette in the mix were often a touch more zesty. I have also drunk some single variety Clairette wines, from Paul Mas. The co-op stocked one a while back, which I enjoyed, and I think Morrisons currently have an example. I don’t think I’ve ever drunk a Mas wine that I haven’t found interesting and enjoyable! However I find these “white Rhône” style wines, are not always appreciated by those who really prefer lighter and fresh white wines.
Very interesting Richard. I agree with your judgment on the sheer variety and quality of the Mas wines. Thanks for the suggestion of the Clairette at Morrisons. I’ve never knowingly had a single varietal Clairette so will have to seek it out
Hello Keith,
Yes.
I do think you might enjoy the Tesco Côtes du Rhone Villages Blanc mentioned above.The “Villages” points to stipulated lower yields and often higher alcohol and more agreeable wines than standard Côtes du Rhone.The vines used in this example are old.
The winemaker Julie is also responsible for Tesco’s Arbousset Lirac and Châteaunuef-du-Pape.At £9 the Rhone is more affordable.
I have also since detected green apple and lemon ; a very pleasant fruit orchestra of a wine- with perhaps a larger string section than many Languedoc copies?
Not the percussive strings in the Augurs of Spring section of Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring then?!!! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kr-wKqy5HnU)