Taking a break from the current plethora of promotions, today’s post picks on two core range wines.
Such steers can be particularly useful for “trolley filling” when “Buy 6” promotions are in force – if they apply where you live.
I think we can expect to see several of those as Christmas draws nearer and nearer.
But, back to today, one choice is a terrific New Zealand sauvignon blanc.
Cheaper versions are about but, if you try this, you will surely never begrudge paying an extra pound or so.
Its partner is bound up in the question “Where did malbec originate?”
Many MidWeekers will tell you, as Jeremy Clarkson might say, that Argentina is the wrong answer.
Millionaire’s “green light” would illuminate Cahors – and it is still made there.
There are inter-continent differences though – with French versions rugged, darker and more savoury than the numerous soft, fruit-forward examples from South America.
Don’t be afraid to explore both these retailers core ranges further – these selections have plenty of impressive company.
As is normal here, pictures and hyperlinks are provided where possible to guide you straight to the right wine on shelf or web page.
Let’s start with that SW France red
2022 Chez Michel Malbec Cahors (£9 at M&S or under a slightly different name in Ocado and 13% abv):
This perfectly illustrates the extra sturdiness of French malbec over many South American versions that I mention in the introduction.
So much so, that this particular one is softened by 15% merlot.
Ruby coloured and dense, it brings us robust damson, mulberry and bramble flavours.
These are accompanied by firm tannin, but balanced acidity, with clove and cocoa elements too.
Now to the other side of the world
2022 Deluxe New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (£8.29 at Lidl and 12%):
Yes, I know a new Lidl Wine Tour is imminent, but never overlook the stars that the retailer’s De Luxe core range contains – like this one.
Admittedly, it is not the cheapest, but Awatere Valley sauvignon is special with crispness from slower ripening and, as here, greater complexity.
Its citrus blossom aromas lead enticingly into textured, intense orange, peach and apple flavours.
Additional support arrives in the form of pink grapefruit acidity and twists of ginger and herbs.
After today’s focus on good, core range table wines, this Thursday’s post has an eye on the Christmas party season with a look at inexpensive sparkling wines.
14 responses
I suspect if M&S called the Malbec “Côt” sales would plummet.
Back in the 13th century,the Cahorsins were hated Christian money lenders.Cahors was synonymous with usury.Nowadays usury means excessively high interest on loans, but those days any interest levied was a mortal sin.
Dante in his Inferno equated Cahors with Sodom and placed the Cahorsins on the fourth level of descent to Hell.However this did not stop them becoming extremely rich as they were the driving force behind the “champagne fairs” that toured around French towns ,each lasting about two weeks that were really trade fairs where “ interest” was called something else.
Lucky for us that the people of Cahors moved on to making robust reds from their rugged robust limestone terrain.
Fascinating stuff Paul and always a joy to read your dives into the pages of history. I trust that the quality of this “cot” will take Cahors winemakers up several levels from the fourth of that nine-stage descent into Hell.
Hello Brian,
The Cahors winemakers have learnt lessons from successful Argentina.The new styles of Malbecs from Cahors are fresh and appealing.The heavy tannins have been tamed ,the alcohol levels reduced and are far more juicy/ fruity than early Cahors.
Le Grand Retour, Malbec de Cahors, Georges Vigouroux, France, 2021, £9.99 (13 per cent) Majestic Is a lovely example of the new expression and the title is consciously ironic as “The great return”.
Your M&S Malbec seems to reflect this welcome evolution.Will certainly be giving it a try.The M&S Chez Michel Marsanne £9 also looks a good option.
Yes. I can’t remember two apparent “rivals” collaborating so closely in any other situation. It is, of course a two way process.
Great information Paul, anyone would think you were a History teacher in a previous life! 😀
“Bliss it was that Internet dawn to be alive, but to get Google and Wikipedia , was the very stuff of Heaven” Apologies to William Wordsworth for loaning me part of this … https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cahors
Does not Goldsmith’s Schoolmaster have some words that apply here? How about “While words of learned length and thund’ring sound ..Amazed the gazing rustics rang’d around”. That certainly applies to this rustic.
Nice one Brenda. Made me smile.
Thanks Paul, always enjoy reading your comments.
“ … if M&S called the Malbec “Côt” sales would plummet.”
I have been investigating Pinot Blanc recently, and remembered a past TWS Walk Around Alsace Tasting. Trying an example of Pinot Blanc, I idly looked at the back label and was surprised to see it was 100% Auxerrois. My pedant trait kicked in and enquired of the producer why his Pinot Blanc wine wasn’t! He wearily replied that if it was labelled Auxerrois no one would buy it! My subsequent investigations found that the Alsace regulations allow a wine labelled Pinot Blanc can contain any amount of Auxerrois, right up to 100% – but a Pinot Blanc wine cannot be labelled Auxerrois!
As an aside: Popped in Lidl recently and they were selling off the 2022 Collin-Bouisset Morgan for £8.99, a reduction of £1. Haven’t drunk this yet, but have much enjoyed several bottle of their 2019 vintage. Richard Bampfield MW rated the 2022 wine at 90 points, and Diana Thompson of Wine Events Scotland also rated it very highly. I was still enjoying the 2019 wine through 2022, so no probs if you don’t get around to drinking it for a while.
Richard mentions Collin Bourisset and I agree they are a good example of Lidl finding interesting good value wine. Few wine shoppers know exactly what to look for and and here we have fine Burgundy from Gamay and Pinot grapes at very keen prices. This negotiant have been dealing in these illusive intensely fruity wines for over a hundred years however I only stumbled across them about 12 years ago. I had given up on Burgundy as it was over £20 a bottle. The new world attempted it but rarely succeeded probably as it needs the right climate.
The Pinot and the Gamay grapes can have very mellow and silky tannins so this makes them a joy to drink. They are also intensely fruity and unusual flavours such as red currants, strawberries, raspberries and cherries and ripened on south facing hillsides. Look for “Coteaux Bourguignons” which can be white, rose or red.
Also Brian loves a historical wine angle so just pointing out Juliénas was indeed named after the infamous Roman emperor and it was the Romans that decided on this location to plant the vines on the hill sides and they also knew to plant them around a thousand metres to keep the grapes cool in summer. According to Decanter you can age these northern Gamay Beaujolais wines for at least 4 years. Try the Morgon and the Fleurie also 90/100 also fit for an emperor
If you want higher scores look out for The Collin Bourisset Macon Rouge (£6.99) which Lidl stocked in 2023 which is a Pinot Noir/Gamay blend so thank you Julius Caesar
Question – The 3 letter word ‘uva’ is the Italian for grape. Is ‘Côt’ the only 3 letter grape variety? Seem to recall there is a niche Croatian grape called something like ‘Grk’ (Greek?)
These look more like airport IATA codes to me. Perhaps they’re growing a bit of ‘Sfo’ in Napa or a new hybrid ‘Opo’ in the Douro valley?
Wow, thanks. Interesting background.
Top knowledge, Paul!
Morning Brian …
This Lidl NZ-SB even from the De Luxe range is easily overlooked when it’s a ”stock bottle”. Take stuff like that for granted if people will but it’s a mistake to believe it’s just yet ”another bottle” and from a ”discounter”, that I personally don’t believe Lidl to be anyway. They price as much as they can fairly and I appreciate that. I do my weekly shop there for 70% of what I use.
They sell high end products that only the only the wine-foodie snobs might turn up their noses at! The number of people who have said to me over the years they won’t shop at Lidl has always astonished me, and make jibes about it!
This Awatere I enjoy it as it gives me what I look for in a New World SB and is very much as you say with more complexity and character than we might believe from just-another-Marlborough-NZ. Majestic have one they want £15.99 for!! So the asking price here of £8.29 looks to be good value.
Currently from that De Luxe range too is another white, Chenin Blanc from Paarl South Africa, that’s usually priced at £6.49 but with the Clubcard app there’s a £1 off. It’s terrific for the money, real value and I’ve been enjoying a bottle over the weekend.
Await your take on the latest Lidl Wine Tour coming up on Thursday. The pre promotion looks very interesting this time when I thought it last month a little lacklustre. I’ll be interested in your take on yet another Paarl SA Chenin, this time with added Marsanne and Rousanne and another SB, from SA, both at £6.99.
But what looks to be most interesting are their offerings from Ukraine, especially the reds’. I can imagine they will be attracting a lot of attention and welcome your comments eventually.
Cheers for now Brian …