Back in the last century, chianti had the reputation of being rustic, robust and tannic beneath its classic cherry and leather flavours.
Equally, words like bold, heavy, oaky, rich and buttery were often (accurately) used as descriptors for Australian chardonnay.
Both of the winelands concerned have worked hard to “lighten up” and align their wines more closely to current tastes.
Here are two examples that, I think, show how good the results of that transition can be.
Happily, neither are especially expensive despite not being on offer at the moment.
Adopting my traditional format, images and, where possible, hyperlinks accompany the assessments of the wines.
First the red.
2020 Chianti Riserva (£6.99 at Lidl and 13% abv):
I have previously praised the 2018 and 2019 vintage of this wine from Lidl’s core range, and the new one is equally good in my opinion.
Smooth with dark fruit aromas, it has – as its foundation – medium bodied plum, cherry and tomato flavours.
These are successfully coupled with an aniseed, thyme and cola texture, good acidity (but limited tannin) and an edge of sweetness.
Follow this link to the retailer’s website but the vintage in store may differ from the illustration there … https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/chianti-riserva/p24692.
Now the Aussie white
2022 Best Western Australia Chardonnay (£8 at Morrisons and 12.5%):
As suggested in the introduction, this is a great illustration of how Australian chardonnay has changed from the oak and alcohol domination of yesteryear.
Medium bodied and stylish, its main features are apple and ripe melon flavours with little sign of the – previously obligatory – tropical fruit.
Those flavours are framed by a creamy texture and the subtlest of barrel influences that include piecrust and caramel hints – with sharp lemon acidity injecting real freshness.
Here is a link to website concerned but the picture may differ from the one shown here … https://groceries.morrisons.com/products/morrisons-the-best-western-australia-chardonnay-349451011
The next post (on Thursday) offers the first real look in 2024 at those Sunday Best options that will turn a special occasion into a Gala one.
14 responses
Morning Brian …
I’m sure I’ve mentioned before I have an old pal who has always had as much interest in wine as myself. Try as I might I cannot get him involved with Sangiovese at any cost. He will give most any variety a go but never this grape. Is it really as marmite as that, do people find? It certainly has very strong characteristics as you describe Brian but Ive always enjoyed better examples from right across Tuscany and especially variants like Brunello .
History, price rises, likeability, etc aside at £6.99 if we want a very decent Chianti that has remained pretty consistent across vintages, I agree this one, at still just under £7 is very acceptable, and always readily available on the shelf. Might that say something about the majority of customers choosing to pass on it leaving it for me? But to my mind probably Lidl’s best red, shelf bottle, to date.
Just a point of history and pricing at Lidl that used to have a ”wine of the week”, (WOTW), back in the day. This Riserva Chianti featured on more than one occasion and I remember it being as cheap as £4.29. Maybe the 2015 vintage it started when they first introduced this riserva at around £5.49 full price. Remembering prices is important to me watchful as I am about unnecessary profiteering. OK, coffee prices everywhere are currently on the up. Lidl France used to do their Bellarom premium pack for €1.99 that was £2.39 here. It went up season on season to £3.29, has been £3.99 for a year now, but 3 to 4 weeks ago went to £4.29!!!
The claims made by government that they have reduced inflation make me LOL as if that drop is ever translated into actual price reductions too when the rate of inflation does come down. Where Lidl is concerned for those who have less rather than more money to spend at least they still have some acceptable cheaper end wine stuff. I’ve always enjoyed their basic Western Cape Chenin Blanc that is still only £4.59.
I am sure most of us have a wine that we struggle with. It is almost as though the brain has an unalterable algorithm that says, “Is this …?” If so, then reject without further consideration. I know mine has!
Your comments and recommendation Brian for the Aussie Chardonnay, brings me to a very similar one which is my “go to” Aussie Chard.
It’s 19 Crimes at £8 from Asda. In Tesco it’s a whopping £9.50 but occasionally comes down to £8 for Clubcard customers.
Yes, there is a hint of the “old” Aussie Chard but it’s very well balanced.
Not tried that recently Fred but, as you say, balance is the key thing. Just the right oak influences enhance the finished product appreciably; too much kills it
Asda Burdizzo Chianti Riserva 12.5% on offer at £7.25,Decanter Bronze award 2024 ,is well worth considering.A Sangiovese Blend ( Merlot?) was very much appreciated by 20 discerning wine enthusiasts in my local community Wine Society.
Aged for two years on oak, medium bodied and a welcome medium alcohol level.Tangy cherry and dark chocolate shavings flavours.Tannins present, but thankfully subdued.
Really good with any Italian tomato based pasta dishes or pizza.
Seems like it is not Merlot but probably Canaiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon blended with the main grape Sangiovese.
That summary characterises exactly what we seem to be seeking currently so, at £7.25, it looks a great recommendation – thanks for calling attention to it.
I also enjoyed the Lidl 2020 Chianti a while back. There are so many new and interesting wines around one can forget long standing favourites. Will check out Paul’s Asda recco, which sounds excellent.
I did compare the Lidl and Asda sub £5 French Pinot Noirs recently. I found both decent light-weight budget reds. The Lidl offering at 12.5% had a bit more body. But I have a soft spot for the 11% Le Manoir du Baron, I can believe it is a Pinot Noir and it has no off flavours. Not much to discuss or describe, but, very slightly chilled, pleasant summer drinking! If your strong preference is for more robust red wine style wines, you may find this weak and uninspiring. Instead, the super value Cepa Lebrel Rioja Crianza at £5.49, might be a better choice.
Always enjoy Chianti, but don’t drink it very often and that Lidl one is decent for the price, another one is the Melini Governo (Tesco) which is a little more on the lighter side but with a spicy savouriness, also Waitrose have the Montidori Sangiovese, with a splash of Merlot which is good. So thanks Brian, Chianti / Sangiovese is now on my shopping list for next wine stock up.
Hi Dave …. concur on the Tesco Melini Governo but have not looked at its price of late. It was a few £s more than I would usually pay when I last had it as part of a price deal 2-3 years ago that made it very affordable to me. That governo style does sangiovese a lot of favours.
And I’m in Northampton from Thursday and 2 miles from a Waitrose … yee haw! So that Montidori could be a contender. Anything else from Waitrose that I should not be missing out on .. anybody…. please advise . Thank you ….
Eddie, my recommendation from Waitrose worth trying would be the red Lentsch Zweigelt from Austria. Zweigelt finally seems to be getting the reputation it deserves in the UK and this particular bottle at a penny below £10 was recommended by David Willians a couple of month’s ago as “a good-value example of the crunchy-sappy cherry-berry-scented and Austrian red variety, zweigelt”.
I also maintain that the Waitrose perennially popular Loire red Les Nivières, Saumur (100% Cabernet Franc) is a bargain at the moment, discounted from £10.99 to £8.99 until 30th July
Hi Keith
I’ve tasted the Zweigelt and it’s pretty good, quite intense, dark cherry, liquorice & touch of vanilla. That Saumur always hits the spot.
Eddie, if you do get to Waitrose check out their own brand ‘Blueprint Range’ most of the ones I’ve tried are very good, I liked the Vinho Verde, Romanian Pinot and Shiraz and all reasonably priced.
Thank you people for your recommendations . I shall enjoy a shopping trip on Friday after noon. The plastic will get a battering and the whole family can share in the riches .