Christmas Day is probably our last remaining national feast day so the consequent richness (and the seasonal weather) both argue for a red wine.
Even if, say, salmon is the main feature, red wine (in the shape of pinot noir) still has a place.
And, after all, turkey is a forgiving meat if traditional fare is on the agenda.
Indeed, it is often the accompaniments (not least robust gravy) that tips the balance in favour of something red.
Remember, too, red is often associated with warmth and celebration – in fact it is the lucky colour in China with deep cultural significance.
So, having identified the colour, let’s explore the options when Santa’s Super Six turns the spotlight on red wines.
Adopting my traditional format, images and, where possible, hyperlinks accompany the assessments of the wines.
Staring with something quite light
2022 Chateau de La Chaize Brouilly (£18.99 at Vintage Roots and 13% abv):
Compared to more northerly parts of the Cru Beaujolais area, the diverse geology of Brouilly often produces fresher, easy drinking, Beaujolais but this example combines delicacy with complexity.
Juicy with aromas of soft fruit, it provides bright and fresh complex cherry, blackcurrant and spicy flavours.
These are accompanied by good orange acidity (but little tannin) together with nuanced cocoa and violet background components to round things out nicely.
Going south from there
2023 Calmel and Joseph Ams Tram Gram “L’Epicurious” (£12.99 at www.secretcellar.co.uk and 13.5%):
Languedoc is known for sound, affordable, “entry point” wines, but some producers there take quality and value an important step higher – without breaking the bank.
Calmel & Joseph is one, and this malbec and petit verdot blend showcases their exceptional skill.
Inky and perfectly balanced, it brings us full, ripe cherry, plum and loganberry flavours coupled with good acidity, gentle tannin and touches of vanilla, cloves and violets.
Moving on to Portugal
2022 Marquês de Borba Colheita Red (from £12.60 at Wickhams and 14%):
Although only becoming a serious wine region relatively recently, Portugal’s Alentejo region has quickly joined the big boys for classy Christmas reds.
This impressive blend of largely local grapes in support of the mighty touriga nacional, and from an acclaimed producer, makes the case brilliantly.
Opening with minty aromas, it features ripe plum, bramble and red currant flavours supplemented by citrus acidity and smooth tannin.
Then, the result goes up a notch courtesy of attractive sprinklings of milk chocolate liquorice and cinnamon hints.
Next an Italian classic.
2020 Specially Selected Barolo (currently £17.49 at Aldi and 13.5%):
For many wine commentators, wine royalty has three “B’s” – Bordeaux, Burgundy and … Barolo.
Like its companions in that gallery, top level Barolo (from truffle country in Piemonte) is breathtakingly expensive – but here is a chance to try the style at a more modest price.
Predictably, superstar it is not, but it does provide powerful cherry, strawberry and raspberry flavours polished to incredible smoothness and with firm tannin yet enlivened by sharp acidity.
That foundation is augmented by clove, eucalyptus and the trademark tar constituents all bathed in (equally typical) rose fragrance.
Next a bird of a different feather
2020 Jonty’s Ducks Pekin Red (£18.99 at House of Townend and 14%):
Here is another example of “big bird intervention” – a flock of vineyard ducks, who not only graze on weeds but also regard slugs, snails and insects as culinary delicacies.
The wine they help to prosper here is from Paarl in South Africa and is a complex melange of shiraz and traditional Bordeaux blend varieties.
Despite surprisingly limited aromas, it offers us intense damson and pomegranate flavours supported by good acidity and gentle tannin.
A dense backbone containing sage, menthol and mocha elements neatly completes the picture.
Staying in the new world.
2022 Montes Angel’s Secret Cabernet Sauvignon (£15 in Tesco and 14.5%):
Although Chile’s Colchagua Valley has a deserved reputation for the quality of its carmenere, the cabernet sauvignon produced there is not to be sniffed at (or, on reflection, perhaps it is).
Indeed, Chile is a good destination for well-made cabernet if the superstars of Bordeaux sail too far beyond what you normally spend on wine.
Full yet pleasantly soft, this example delivers ripe blackcurrant, plum and bramble flavours.
Those it skilfully combines with nippy acidity, smooth tannin and suggestions of mint, cedar and baking spice.
Here are other options Santa’s Elves enjoyed.
- 2023 No.1 Côtes du Rhône Villages (£12.99 at Waitrose and14.5%): Medium bodied with plum and olive components and evolving softness.
- 2020 Best Las Dos Caras Ribera del Duero (£10.50 at Morrisons and 14%): Black cherry and prune flavours that shine once decanting has softened the tannin a bit.
- 2020 Taste the Difference Morador Cabernet Franc (£9.50 at Sainsbury’s but Nectar and multi-buy discounts are in force – and 15%): a delight from Argentina’s Uco Valley with soft bramble and cherry elements and nicely ripe.
Join me again on Monday to see what I am I recommending as the latest Top Tips among High Street retailers.
14 responses
Well Brian, what a great selection of enticing reds!
I can imagine Leslie Phillips saying “Hello,Hello” followed by “Lumme” or even “Ding,Dong”.
The wife is Scottish and I would urge anyone to make Skirlie stuffing to accompany the turkey.Made from oats, butter, onion , salt and pepper with amazing gravy absorbent qualities.
However Brian,a mild admonishment is in order- wot no Claret, dear boy?
You know that sometimes the best Xmas presents are the ones you buy for yourself.Something different than socks and underpants.
Well I started early this year and spotted a brilliant Wine Society Bordeaux tasting kit at £29.99 ;came with detailed notes and an informative video on you tube.Six top red wines different styles,areas, vintages.
I persuaded myself that rather than keep it for Xmas, it would make a great wine advent calendar- so I am working my way through delightful wines and learning a lot on the journey.
Sadly the kit is no longer available, but I recommend the TWS Chateau Canada £8.95 or better still the TWS Generation Series Haut-Medoc 13.5% £14.95 which is a silky 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot top Claret.
By the way the actor Leslie Phillips got his big break in “Les Girls “ 1957 in a famous scene where he had to hit Gene Kelly on the nose.
Was Leslie Phillips not also the hapless navigator in “The Navy Lark”? Pursuing the Phillips line, I was reluctant to suggest claret here unless Bordeaux prices went “Left Bank down a bit”. However, you have made the recommendations for me rather nicely – earning yourself, no doubt, the eternal and richly deserved gratitude of claret-oriented MidWeekers. …. And mine too.
Sub-liutenant Phillips actually, and “left hand down a bit” was one of his catch-phrases.
Excellent columns leading up to Christmas but we are currently in Spain so I am itching to get at some of your recommendations. 23°C offers some compensation, however.
Hi Paul,,
I snapped up the Bordeaux tasting kit. Tried the first 3 wines last week, and will be doing the last ones, possibly tonight. A great initiative.
An interesting addition to my recent musings about one’s appreciation of a wine depending on both Style and Quality …
My wife is a keen Claret enthusiast, and she joined me tasting the first 3 wines in the pack. The bottles cost £14.95, £15.50 & £38 respectively. Her clear favourite was the 2nd wine. She didn’t waver when learning that the 3rd wine was over twice the price – she re-tasted, and yes, the 2nd wine was her favourite.
Well, her favourite (The Wine Society’s Generation Series Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2020) was 65% Merlot, 30% Cab Franc and 5% Malbec. The 3rd wine (The Society’s 150th Anniversary Margaux 2015 – from Ch Angludet) was a 55% Cab Sauvignon, 37% Merlot & 8% Petit Verdot mix.
I like Claret, but err towards the “Crowd Pleasing” end of its spectrum, whilst Judith is more hard core, and is towards the “Challenging” end. My theory, in this case, is that the 30% Cab Franc and touch of Malbec gave it its edgy quality. For wimps like me, I preferred the smoothy elegant Margaux! For her, she likes a proper Claret. Conversely, for Pinot Noir, I am the edgy guy, and she is the wimp!
Another reason why, when people ask me for a wine recommendation, I may proffer a couple of suggestions – but always with the caveat – “But the world’s leading authority on your wine preferences is you!”
Hi Brian,
Nice selection as always, I do like the Montes ( with the very distinctive labels), not had one for a while now but I remember always enjoying whatever Variety/Varietal (always get confused which term to use, nouns and adjectives etc) .
Christmas for me will probably be Spanish, followed by Spanish and probably finish with Spanish, did you expect anything else!!
In answer to your last question, No!
Good day Brian .. one all … and as ever with this MWW posting appreciative of such erudition all round.
I do enjoy getting excited and being enthusiastic about the entire Xmas period and all it brings to the family, society and relationships. My best woman and I no longer exchange presents, haven’t for years. After all, what can you give to the person who already has everything they need in a materialistic way. No, we give of our time to each other instead and we share the experience quite intensely together, with her enjoying shopping for the extended family presents. We never take any part of it for granted. I’m sure many do it like that too. We will decamp after Boxing Day to family further south and spend some days with them.
This tends to determine the eating and drinking question and the many meals that will get taken. Scope indeed amongst wine drinkers for all manner of enjoyment and indulgence. And pairing-up wine and food is important to me as are other other festive drinking moments.
First drink of the day on the 25th for instance will be our take on a Singapore Sling, a wonderful cocktail marrying of booze and fruity flavours, grenadine, pineapple even cocktail cherries to compliment the cherry brandy and of course the London Dry Gin. Served ice-cold it will set us up nicely. The other usual liqueurs to make it entirely authentic we shall have to pass on. We don’t have them!
But in making the choice of ”what meat”, and it will be meaty, we are not vegetarians, I take that mention of yours Brian that it could be more about the sauces or richness of gravy than the meat itself. Although we won’t do the turkey thing on the day this year, (we’ll get plenty of that elsewhere no doubt), meat gravies and sauces of all kinds can better determine the actual wine.
May I respectfully make a suggestion that whatever people might choose if they haven’t had it before, especially a red, they do a try-out to see if they will like it or believe it will work on the day. And then will visitors to their table like the choice? So maybe more than only a single bottle open of differing characteristics to cover all bases.
Suddenly I get evocations, visions of a purple Cabernet Franc, all sous bois, from Chinon or St Nicolas or even Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Marzemino Trentino from the Dolomites, lighter in weight lower alcohol and cherries to delight. That’s because my actual choice will be quite heavy. I see the Marzemino is close to a tenner now but £8 with our Nectar card and £6 when buying 6 that is still on. I think that is terrific value and the wine has always been excellent across vintages.
We are having beef because not only do we like it a lot but here comes a chance to push the boat out, spend some money and get a special breed or speciality cut. I love the colour brochures that come from Aldi, Morrisons and Lidl showing what is coming along.
I spotted a 2lb bone-in Wagyu rib steak with melting fat at Aldi that will roast beautifully I’m sure. It entices me a lot. And that would certainly match with the E. Guigal, Château D’Ampuis Côtes du Rhône 2021 from The Wine Society, if you have membership, and Majestic, both have it the latter at only £9.99 when mixing 6! Predominantly Syrah, full-on for sure but silky smooth, it’s terrific.
But for me at the astonishing money of £7.95, what sings out is the elusive full of quality and value under-a-tenner Bordeaux that here from TWS that is Chateau Camarsan 2022 Côtes de Bordeaux, somewhere close to Saint Emilion, it too is a Merlot to delight.
The drawback with any of these bottles is they are heavy on alcohol even the claret. But who wants to be blotto before the pudding and cheese courses so steady away, one or two medium size glasses are quite enough. In fact a return to either later would work with cheese as well, especially the Guigal!
One other thing we might go for in the way of what used to be an easy-access bottle is that Calvet Cité de Carcassonne from Morrisons that’s not being listed any more!! I’m sad. It says it’s still available through Amazon but I’m not holding my breath.
BUT here’s a thing. We still have some! An appropriate meal on Xmas Eve will happen no doubt and I’ll open a Carcassonne and maybe just have a glass, then leave at least half a bottle! We did this last weekend. 24 hours on this Calvet offering was even better. Love the stuff. Belt and braces eh?
Hi Eddie,
I wish I was a member of your family, and join you for Christmas!
Popped into the Felixstowe branch of Morrisons this morning, and as I do, photographed a few interesting wine bottles – for future investigation …
They had the Calvet Carcassonne, 2022, and The Best Chinon 2023, both at £9, but reduced to £8 with their loyalty card. There is also a 25% off 6 offer, but don’t know what restrictions. Also the Morrisons basic Soave at £4.65 – earlier versions of this won high praise – the latest was reviewed by Fiona Beckett and described as not knocking any socks off, but decent whites under £5 are hard to find.
My Christmas fizz will be The Society’s Cava Reserva Brut 2021 which is on offer at £49.50 for a case of 6, super value for a classy wine, so I’ve split a case with a friend.
My guilty secret is that we always drink Asti Spumante with Christmas pudding. I love Christmas Pud, but it is a touch heavy, so we have it on Boxing Day, and the light frothy Asti counteracts the stodge. I have a couple of Aldi versions bought for £4!, but also have a fancier one, 2021 Elio Perrone Moscato d’Asti Sourgal, bought from TWS, which probably should have been drunk last year, hope it will be OK.
Steve Shaw …. Richard ….anyone … who is a fan of Cava at its usual cheaper-than-champagne price … email from Lidl just came to me with info’ about the December Wine Tour that features this bottle at £8.99 and gets 90/100 points. Called Cava 150 Tasting notes say: ”An impressive Cava that will hit the spot this festive season. Expect a lime-scented nose with flavours of baked apple on the palate and good length – fresh, dry, delicious. Enjoy as an aperitif or savoury canapés. One for those that like top-quality Cavas.” Lime scented sounds appealing to me and a credible score too.
Richard … although they were not showing the Calvet Carcassonne on the webpage I was hoping there would still be a few bottles left on the shelf at either of the two local branches of Morrisons I use. I was thinking that if they had dropped the product .. because it didn’t sell well … there could be some left for the time being until such times as I arrived and scooped the lot, especially with the extra 25% multi buy. I have to go to Morrisons soon to use a free £10 card they gave me in recompense …I shall if I can stock up and try that Best Chinon too at £8 full price. It’s new that and there should be no problem finding it. Fingers crossed it’s a worthy one!
Just to say, they have some Calvet other bottles so it’s a pity they can’t retain the Cite de Carcasonne rouge no doubt because a very basic label does not capture the attention nor may the majority appreciate the provenance on offer. A coincidence the terrific Aldi one went the same way a year or two back. Rustic French carignan as a stand alone I really get.
Brian Freedman in Food&Wine writes<>
Him and Jancis say it all!! Ho hum ….
sorry Richard something dropped out from my copy and paste … vis ..
Brian Freedman in Food&Wine writes
Carignan is a grape variety that, according to the renowned wine writer and critic Jancis Robinson, “was the single most common vine variety planted in … France until it was overtaken by Merlot at the end of the 20th century, [and] most wine drinkers have never heard of it.” But that doesn’t mean that it deserves to remain that way. Carignan, after all, offers the significant advantage of producing a substantial amount of fruit in the vineyard, which means more wine from the winery. In the world of wine, there is often an inversely proportional relationship between volume and quality, but the ranks of producers who are crafting well-made Carignan are growing.
Him and Jancis say it all!! Ho hum ….
I did a Radio Wales Friday morning chat show from St David’s Hall in Cardiff once with Leslie Phillips that also featured Rosemary Connolly the diet and fitness expert. It was ding dong all the way !!!
Hello Eddie,
I do like this quote about Leslie Phillips:
“He was an accomplished actor who could go from Leer to Lear”.
We’re dyed-in-the-wool traditionalists with our Christmas grub: turkey, roasties, sprouts, turkey gravy, stuffing, pigs in blankets, cranberry sauce, bread sauce. Boxing Day and after, cold turkey, boiled ham, jacket spuds, a bit of hopefully not-too-insipid winter salad, pickled onions, more cranberry sauce. We eat in the evening and don’t drink until just before. We decided years ago that posh reds were a bit lost on that lot, so we now just go with our favourite “budget” reds of the previous months. This year it’ll be the M&S Lisboa Bonita and/or the M&S La Cascata. We’ll be eschewing the prosecco for a few days, and, for aperitifs, I’ve laid a few bottles of Morrisons Crémant de Limoux rosé, which I got for £7.50 on a double dip a few weeks ago (!) – very classy, and better in m’humble than the white – and six bottles of the Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Cava Brut, 25% off six coming in at £6.66. As classy a so-called “cheap” cava I’ve tasted in years. Could finish with a small glass of Blandy’s Madeira… or a tot of Ardbeg 10…
We do drink white wine sometimes…
Sounds like perfect traditional Christmas fare and a really helpful steer on those two sparkling wines – thank you Steve.