Ask what Spain’s top red wine region is and most people will answer “Rioja”.
That’s understandable and fully justified by the quality attained there.
However, another (harsher) area that also uses tempranillo grapes is often preferred by Spanish people themselves – Ribera del Duero.
Counter-intuitively, grapes sometimes give their best when conditions are inhospitable.
And harsh certainly describes that plateau-based, low rainfall wine region.
It sits on the banks of the Duero river before the waterway crosses into Portugal and becomes the Douro – of port fame.
However, winters in Ribera sometimes extend to three-quarters of the year and can reach -20 ºC at times.
Summers, by contrast, are often scorchingly hot with temperatures over 42 ºC not unusual.
Large temperature variations are not just between seasons, but also between day and night during crucial parts of the growing season.
That, though, is not always bad news.
Hot daytimes ripen the grapes while cool nights serve to maintain freshness and acidity.
Altitude can also play a part by thickening grape skins and, thus, darkening the colour of the eventual wine.
Thicker skins often mean more tannin, but that acidity mentioned earlier acts as am effective counterbalance.
Another feature of the region is the number of wines reflecting greater minerality.
In fact, I would suggest that Ribera is one of the best places in the world for handling minerality.
But now it is time to consider their wines – not just talk about them.
Once again, pictures and hyperlinks are included where possible to make it easier to track down the wine in question.
First a Gateway Selection.
2021 CVNE Taste the Difference Ribera del Duero (£9 – instead of £10.50 until 27 August – at Sainsbury and 14% abv):
Given all the constraints, it is no surprise that Ribera del Duero wines are not bargain-basement offerings.
Nevertheless, carefully selected High Street options can give you a clear idea whether this style is for you.
That, you may recall, is the rationale behind my “Gateway Selections” – a sense of what it is all about without risking too much money.
Textured with limited aromas, this one provides smooth prune and mulberry flavours with good acidity and nicely softened tannin.
These are combined with traces of raisin, chocolate and a liquorice and mineral influenced savouriness.
See more details via this link … https://www.sainsburys.co.uk/gol-ui/product/sainsburys-ribera-del-duero-taste-the-difference-75cl
Sweet Spot Options.
2022 Finest Ebeia Ribera del Duero (£12 at Tesco and 14.5%):
Moving up a level, we find this slightly younger Tesco option when we hit the “sweet spot” where price and quality seem to fit together most snugly.
This example pushes the fruit further forward than the Gateway Selection but then -perhaps because of its youth – the savoury elements are rather less in evidence.
Bold in colour with aromas of dark fruit, it has relatively soft cherry and blackberry flavours partnered by good acidity and firm tannin.
Suggestions of chocolate, rosemary, clove and cedar complete the picture but, as I say, the foot stays off the heavy minerality pedal.
See more details via this link … https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/306943389
Staying in the Sweet Spot range
2019 El Duque de Miralta Ribera del Duero – (£12 at M&S stores and 14%):
If you are looking for a typical example of the style, this fits the bill nicely.
It has a bit of aging, illustrates the handling of minerality well, has rich tempranillo fruit elements but then surprises with traces of soft fruit
Intense and with attractive floral aromas, it contains rich plum and bright strawberry flavours with the right amount of acidity to balance its tannin levels.
Supplementary components include thyme, cola and nuttiness with underlying volcanic savouriness apparent right from the get-go.
And a Reserva option
2018 Bardos Reserva Ribera del Duero (from £15.99 at Majestic and 14.5%):
This is from one of the toughest parts of the already pretty challenging Ribera region but seems to respond well to adversity.
Slightly unusually, there is a dash or so of cabernet sauvignon along with the tempranillo.
Full and almost black in colour, it features full elderberry, prune and dried fruit flavours.
These are accompanied by nippy acidity, firm tannin, a rounded mineral edge and hints of white pepper, thyme and dark chocolate.
See more details via this link … https://www.majestic.co.uk/wines/bardos-reserva-rib-del-duero-14766
Finally to the Aspirational Choice
2021 Aalto Bodegas y Viñedos (£38.70 at Amathus Drinks and 14.5%):
If a special occasion approaches and there is a little in the kitty, this would be a perfect accompaniment.
It is absolute stardust with style, elegance and a lovely ripeness plus an aging potential that stretches well into the future.
Sophisticated and concentrated, it exhibits striking cherry, bramble and loganberry flavours coupled with soft tannin but lively acidic verve.
Also on parade are black pepper, cigar box and chestnut elements melded agreeably into a reassuringly smooth texture.
See more details via this link … https://www.amathusdrinks.com/b2c/aalto?srsltid=AfmBOooffg7TgqCiF3lIW7LXPPECTgcJ3Wo3CwAfH5QSjCsHOUUZ4Upb
Tesco being adventurous.
If you have never heard of the Floreal grape variety, fear not – it is practically brand new.
It has been developed through crossbreeding with several varieties to create vines that are especially resistant to a range of diseases (including some we discussed last week)
That not only helps keep yields consistently high but avoids expensive and environmentally undesirable vineyard treatments.
All that becomes academic however if the results do not taste good but, happily, that does not seem to be the case.
Results from plantings in Languedoc and the Loire Valley are encouraging.
Normally, new wines would be cautiously introduced into selected “indies” until they catch on with major suppliers.
Not so here. It is Tesco that have gone all out on floreal and made it an exclusive to them. But is that justified?
Well, it will not be outselling sauvignon blanc by Christmas, but I think it definitely has a place in the wine aisles.
It combines a texture a bit like white grenache with pronounced apple flavours like, for instance, some unoaked chardonnays.
Overall, the best comparison for me is something like a peach embellished fiano – flavoursome and soft yet probably with more zing that those recently revived Italian whites.
Like chardonnay, it seems to work best a few degrees above fridge temperature.
Here then are my general conclusions.
2023 Floreal (£7 – instead of £8 until 26 August – for Tesco Clubcard holders and 11% abv):
Opening with orchard fruit aromas, it brings us smooth greengage, apple and melon flavours.
There is a strong sensation of freshness here which is boosted by grapefruit and orange acidity.
Its food-friendly texture also contains mild savoury traces.
OK not jaw droppingly stunning but certainly one to give a go, and something that could fill a largely neglected gap in the overall spectrum of white wines.
See more details via this link … https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/316548681
After today’s glimpse of more expensive wine, it’s back to budget (but great value) fare in Monday’s Top Tip selections.
11 responses
Morning Brian,
Thanks for a really informative article, and the valuable recommendations. And I love the extra features you tag on at the end.
Looking through my records I have no Ribera wines in my racks, and (since my records began!) have only consumed a single bottle 2 years ago – a 2019 Baron Amarillo from Aldi, which I noted was very good and popular. So fair to say these wines are not on my radar! The common view is that lesser known wine areas usually present greater value, so good to hear about them. Of course if the lesser known is also difficult to pronounce, then even greater value, e.g. recently had a recommendation for an Arretxea from Irouléguy. Now that must be an absolute steal!
Of course Tesco and Sainsbury’s have 25% off 6 at the moment, so these selections can be had at bargain prices!
I did get an email about a 25% off wine at Ocado, and their website confirms this, BUT this is for selected wines, and the M&S recommended Ribera is not included.
I steer clear of Ocado, I understand that their prices for M&S items are sometimes higher than those in the store, which would be really irritating. And the M&S web site is not very helpful for wine availability and pricing. A shame, because when I pop into the local store there are certainly many interesting bottles (and, unusually, half bottles). Perhaps the technique is to visit the store to see the offers – blimey, just like the old days! They do have some reductions/offers from time to time, but suspect these might be store dependent bin ends, rather than at national level?
Thanks Richard. I think it is the clear read across from the austere terrain to the minerality of the wine that is really remarkable.
Hi Brian
Great post, my favourite subject (Spanish wines) and as much as I enjoy Rioja, Ribera is up there as well, being slightly more concentrated and intense and generally higher in abv. I’ve tasted all the ones you’ve mentioned, the ‘Tesco Finest Ebeia’ I’ve had many times and never disappoints, the same with the Sainsbury’s CVNE or (CUNE), The Aalto I drunk a little while ago now, can’t remember the vintage but it was a step above, but at a price.
I enjoyed the Floreal, as you say nothing special but a solid refreshing white, a new hybrid grape offering a natural resistance (especially with climate change) from such things as Mildew, and rot and takes less treating so less, mechanical spraying, etc, which itself reduces Co2 emissions and more, always a good thing.
Yes, encouraging that Tesco were involved in the development. Nice bit of forward thinking by Charlotte Lemoine from the Tesco buying team.
My fortunate introduction to Ribiera was Vega Sicilia. We diverted to pass the vineyard in the late ’70s, curious that its wines then matched the 1st growths of the Medoc in price. We stopped and were invited in…..
A very happy memory, worth every sip.
Wow …. Talk about starting at the top. You must have been something of a pioneer, Nigel, that many years ago.
Hi Brian,
I enjoy Ribera del Duero especially when I’m in sunny Spain. I drink the CVNE wines too so I’ll aim to try their Ribera. Incidentally Waitrose have a 25 per cent discount offer and on 6 or more bottles so I picked up some Norton Torrentes and Beronia Verdejo yesterday. I enjoy them both.
Bob.
Those Waitrose acquisitions look good options Bob and the Tesco Ribera is especially good.
Hello Brian …
Great mention there for a memory from Nigel … bril!
Every day a schoolday so thank you for this education! I knew little about the details of this particular ‘species’. I did north west Spain only once so not enough time to become familiar with this wine as found in situ. I do buy Spanish wine, but not a big purchaser of many different, across-the-board Spanish offerings.
However … a few years ago … on a sparkling, clear, early summer’s day, flying down over the Bay of Biscay, crossing over the Costa Verde and south towards Portugal, I was privileged to a visual treat when passing over the Duero-Douro valley seen from the aircraft cabin. Magnificent!! Spectacular!! The verdant river gorge and hillsides planted with vines. Extraordinarily beautiful.
Anyway, I must go back to another Tesco branch today, different from that which I called into yesterday, to try for some more 25% offer bottles. To get Mucho Mas, missing yesterday, for my wife, and now the Ebeia AND the Floreal too. £9 and £5.25 respectively so not exceeding anywhere near that £16!! Ha!
But I did get the Campaneo Old Vines Tempranillo at £4.87 and I want some of its companion bottle of Garnacha too. And I see a Finest Classico Soave Superiore at £6.18, that I missed yesterday.
I did get my Les Terrasses Cabernet Franc £8.25 and Eglise Saint Jaques Bergerac £5.62 but again I think as I trawl through the website listing right now I’m disappointed at myself for being somewhat resistant of late to shop wine at Tesco. There’s some lovely stuff potentially there including what I hope will be a southern Tuscan treat, the Casa Piccini Toscana £8 down to £5.25.
This is all very reasonable, within budget wine shopping with so much interesting stuff to go at prompted by your today’s recommendations.
Cheers for now …
Pilzwiderstandsfahige Traubensorten .No, I am not swearing in German! Thankfully shortened to PIWI.Floreal is one of the first examples of PIWI wines.
They are hybrids of European and wild Asian and American grapevines that are highly resistant to mildew and rot.
Expect to hear lots more about PIWI wines.
Back to thick skins on grapes.
The advantages are less bruising in winds,less sun scorch and greater resistance to disease.
Thin skinned grapes like Pinot Noir are very delicate.
Made some notes Brian on a couple of recent bottles. Might make for a few minutes reading for anyone out shopping soon?? A couple to catch asap for best price ….
Tesco Piccini Toscana Rosso £8 down to £7 with Clubcard £5.25 with 25% off buy 6. Deep cherry red on the just lighter side of medium. Lacks real depth and some will say unremarkable … but … nothing offensive here … quite drinkable/enjoyable as an aperitif with savoury snacks. Current deal finishes 26th August. Not typical of a full-on Chianti. Probably mostly merlot with sangiovese. Maybe not at £8 but ok quaffing for just over £5.
Lidl Cimarosa NZ-Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on offer £6.99 down to £4.99 until August 28th. Definitely worth a shout. Plenty typicality here with tropical citrus, pineapple and grapefruit, and melon too giving it a very slight sweet fruit edge on the finish without really intense minerality that I think will please some SB drinkers who favour Loire/Bordeaux more than Marlborough. Served well chilled it was super refreshing, great value and hugely enjoyable.
The Wine Society Portuguese red, Peninsula Setubal £6.50 and FREE delivery!! Astonishing value for such quality and captivating drinking if Central Portugal is already your thing with the usual suspects like Porta 6 and Bodacious. Membership required, £40 up front, £20 credit on first order and I’ve never regretted committing to membership for what The Society offers with its intriguing selections of quality at affordable prices.
Except …..
The Wine Society Spätburgunder Bio, Ruppertsberg 2023 £9.95.
A rare failure by ‘them’ following their last vintage offering of this German Pinot Noir! So disappointing when the 2022 was terrific. You win some … I do wonder what they can do as a retailer when they must contract to take a batch and it doesn’t work? If TWS was to put their stock on a substantial reduced offer I still wouldn’t buy! Maybe some will feel different but I go with my gut on this.
Aldi Lisbon Rosé a WOTW offer at £4 off when purchased but they can keep it for me. Not worth discussion.
Aldi English Pinot Noir-Précose Rosé £9.99 . Hit the spot just out of the fridge. Aldi themselves and others do Provence rosés for less than this but there is a charm about this Bowler & Brolly, Lyme Bay Winery offering that leaves no disappointment if light, fresh, exceptionally well-made rosé wine is your thing in summer. Online says it’s £5.99 but seems like that’s all long gone malarky and a ‘new bottling-new label’ is up now at something like £12 down to £11. Very difficult to trust Aldi online advertising. Whatever … the price … the availability … changed label … dear me …. thankfully it is lovely wine.