Excessive alcohol consumption is widely recognized as harmful.
One response often propounded here is to reduce quantities but push wine quality up a bit.
That approach can upgrade what you drink but still balances your budget.
And it is equally successful for those who only consume modest quantities.
Research by Italy’s National Research Council further strengthens the case for doing so.
That identified direct connections between the quality of the wine tasted and the positive responses it creates.
So you could say that both health and enjoyment benefit from a “less but better” initiative.
The challenge, of course, is finding wines that deliver that quality improvement.
Consequently, this post is designed to pinpoint options that rise a rung above entry-level offerings yet do not break the bank.
The images and hyperlinks provided should help you to find them in crowded displays.
First up then a sauvignon.
2023 Le Zeitgeist Sauvignon Blanc (£11.99 at Virgin Wines and 11% abv):
The “Vin de France” category loosens restrictions on blending grapes from different regions.
One benefit is that it allows creative winemakers to demonstrate a variety’s strengths regardless of exact location.
Here we can see, in real life, the extra complexity that flexibility can create.
Aromatic and intense, this example provides fresh gooseberry, white peach and pineapple flavours.
These are attractively combined with zingy lime acidity, and suggestions of savoury spice, citrus pith and lemongrass.
Now for some chardonnay
2023 Errazuriz Gran Reserva Chardonnay (£11.99 at Waitrose and 13%):
Good to see this new arrival in Waitrose from a year that started and ended slightly less warm than usual.
That helped to keep the ripening process measured in pace.
Over three quarters of the fruit used for this wine was fermented in oak but lees contact helped its richness too.
Barrel aromas beckon invitingly towards the wine’s fresh acidity-charged melon, apple and emerging orange flavours.
These are integrated into a smooth texture that has crème fraiche, vanilla, caramel influences and a twist of cedar.
And on to reds
2021 Bosman Grenache Noir (£10.50 at Wood Winters and 12.5%):
We often associate grenache with rich, robust Southern European red wines but that is not the case everywhere.
New world versions (like this South African gem) often emphasise juiciness and fruitiness over power and texture.
This, for instance, is medium bodied with sharp acidity to complement its bright raspberry and red currant flavours.
Juniper, citrus peel and clove elements add complexity but, consistent with the wine’s lightness, its tannin is agreeably soft.
Moving on from the new world
2021 M&S Etna Rosso (in M&S physical stores and, at £14.45, in Ocado and 13%)
Sicily’s Mount Etna has stimulated considerable interest among progressive growers for quality wines.
Its mix of exposures are often reflected in the rich diversity of wines produced there.
This example opens up nicely to reveal medium bodied cherry, pomegranate and damson flavours.
Lively acidity and firm tannin complete the picture along with anise, espresso and clove elements.
Changing gears with “What’s the Difference?”.
I am often asked how more expensive wines compare with those widely available everyday choices.
Well, some of those superstars are superb – with just the right flavour, balance, complexity and longevity.
But – the question goes – how will I know whether I am likely to enjoy them.
Fair enough, no one wants to spend extra money on something that is not to their taste, however technically perfect they may be.
To try to tackle that, here is one, at least, laddering up option.
Gateway Selection
2022 Extra Special Bordeaux Superieur (£7.48 at Asda and 13.5%):
Let’s be clear. Fruit centred reds, often from the southern hemisphere, have become a “go to” choice nowadays.
Consequently, classic savoury edged and slightly tannic, mid-market Bordeaux reds currently grab less attention than they once did.
However, budget-conscious claret enthusiasts will appreciate this sound, inexpensive, example of the region’s traditional style.
Pronounced plum and raspberry flavours do appear here, but they share space with typical savoury, vegetal aromas
Other “space sharers” include trade-mark touches of cocoa, charcoal, cedar and vanilla as well as gentle acidity and firm tannin.
Aspirational Choice.
2018 Château Mondou Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (£30 – instead of £55 – at Grapey Limited and 15%):
To find an option that demonstrates what more expensive claret tastes like, yet is not overly expensive for what it offers, I have had to cross over to the Right Bank and to Saint Emilion.
This side of the Gironde the soil is clay based – geology that makes it difficult for cabernet sauvignon to ripen fully.
Merlot, however, is king in Saint Emilion because it ripens earlier and actually benefits from the climate there.
Not only that but it actually relishes the water regulation that Right Bank soil composition provides
Dark with typical claret aromas, this example brings us beautifully smooth and lengthy cherry, plum and blackberry flavours.
These are supported by firm tannin and complex hints of eucalyptus, chocolate and tobacco with a mineral edge that also possesses earthy and graphite elements.
So, there are options to help any experimentation with a less but better policy.
My next post (on Monday) contains terrific recommendations of Top Tips for you in the weekly feature of that name.
