It was not hard to choose the subject of the first of this year’s producer profiles.
That post is a focus on one winemaker and seeks to highlight some great wines that he or she makes.
To set the scene, though, two stories.
A while back UK retailers sometimes invited selected producers to attend press tastings of theirs.
Usually, the invitee lurked next to their wine spiderlike ready to pounce on anyone tasting it – and assail them with a host of its technical details.
But the guy this year ignored his own wine and went round the tables tasting every other wine to see who was doing what.
That was my introduction to Jean-Claude Mas.
It was consistent with the approach of a man who forsook the world of economics and advertising to bring innovation to his family’s wine business.
His father, Paul Mas, was a grower but an early decision for Jean-Claude was to develop winemaking skills to enlarge the operation.
Next, he became obsessed with the success of new world wine thinking – to the horror of his more traditional peers.
As tongue in cheek retribution for the hard time they gave him, Mas created an innovative brand and called it the Arrogant Frog.
Predictably, Australians loved that irreverence – and the sauvignon blanc version became a best seller there.
And it remains on many of the world’s wine lists today.
His devotion to getting the best from his native Languedoc is legendary and has played a signiticant part in the region’s wine industry re-inventing itself
His “Destination Outlet” – Côte Mas near Pézenas – provides another illustration of the region’s development.
Here, though, are some of the great value wines Jean-Claude Mas produces to reflect what Languedoc can do so very well.
In the usual way, hyperlinks and pictures are used where possible to help you locate the bottle in question.
Let’s start with Viognier.
2023 Irresistible Viognier (£8 at the Co-op and 13% abv):
The Northern Rhone’s signature white wine grape, viognier, has taken brilliantly to Languedoc but the greater warmth there can introduce significant differences.
Sometimes firmer tropical fruit elements overpower the beautiful floral and textual complexity of Rhône versions, but this Languedoc option is skilfully balanced.
With a pleasantly scented opening, it is neatly centred on ripe tangerine and apricot flavours.
In addition, there are further floral influences and a firm acidity within the rounded, viscous texture that is sometimes a casualty when average temperatures rise.
And another varietal with Rhone connections.
2023 Paul Mas Marsanne (£8.97 list price at Asda, but currently £7.74 in some stores, and 13.5%):
Marsanne is another white wine Rhône grape and one that plays a major role in blends made there – often with the more fragrant roussanne.
When it goes it alone, however, the variety’s mineral and nutty features acquire prominence – although its does need carefully selected locations because excess heat easily robs it of acidity.
Once again, this example is judged to perfection with freshness and herbal aromas that help it deliver – and embellish – its rounded quince, pear and mango flavours
Those are adroitly combined with a vibrant grapefruit acidity, a savoury finish and smooth, clean mouthfeel.
NB:- The bottle pictured on the website may not match the current one shown here.
Switching to reds.
2023 Paul Mas Reserve Merlot (£9 – instead of £10 until 21 April – with a Tesco Clubcard and 14%):
I am going to stick with a varietal for the next selection but one (with only 10% of the vineyard area) that is not a major player in Languedoc- Roussillon – merlot.
However, get a high, cool site where the ripening process is slowed and good acidity is retained and the results can be brilliant – as you will see here.
Dark in colour and delightfully fragrant, this contains smooth plum, raspberry and cherry flavours.
Able support comes in the shape of good acidity and firm tannin but with traces of cedar, baking spice and chocolate too.
A blend at last.
2023 Irresistible Languedoc Rouge (£10 at the Co-op and 14%):
At the start, I expected this review to be dominated by blends because Jean-Claude and his team are such effective winemakers.
Slightly surprising, then, to have three varietals leading the pack but this blend is the real deal.
Although the bottle is coy about the precise mix, this red is led by grenache and syrah with about 10% mourvedre.
So, relish the fullness and nutty aspects on display in this GSM mix with a Languedoc accent as well as the bramble plum and raspberry flavours it contains.
Anise, oregano and other herbal or spice elements quickly join the party and are given a boost by orange based acidity and modest tannin.
Finally a wild card
2024 Côte Mas Rosorange (£10 at Waitrose and 12.5%):
Using Jean-Claude’s innovator instincts, this is a blend of conventional rosé with orange wine (white wine made in the same way as red wine with skin contact).
Presumably, the idea is to combine the delicacy of rosé with the texture of orange wine.
Broadly, two thirds of the grapes go to make conventional rosé with the remainder (macabeu, vermentino and some of the grenache gris being used) macerated separately on the skins for about a week.
Then both constituents come together for the final part of the fermentation.
Being a traditionalist, I was not blown away by the 2023 version but this new vintage seems to have wider appeal.
A local orange wine refusenik here, was actually almost addicted to the result this time.
So, enjoy the peach and rose perfume it displays and the fresh, light bodied red cherry and satsuma flavours it leads into.
All that is accentuated by sprightly acidity, rhubarb sharpness, and an intricate creamy texture with sherbet hints.
Tune in again on Monday when value at budget price points from other producers is, once more, the theme of my latest Top Tips post.
