Many thanks for all the kind words following Monday’s email – the MidWeek Wines community really is a great tribe.
Happily, I am sufficiently powered up today to provide the final piece of the “what to buy for Christmas” exercise.
As ever, sparkling options are the subject of Part 4.
There are some fabulous champagnes out there (with prices to match) but they get lots of coverage from other commentators.
So, the focus this time is on sparkling wine at the inexpensive end of the spectrum.
Nevertheless, it is still useful to know what to look for in wines with bubbles, so I have added this four point guide.
- First what does you nose tell you – look for fruitiness (apple blossom and peach aromas for instance) counterbalanced by toast or brioche elements.
- On the palate, the balance is also important – acidity, fruit and savouriness – with none of them dominating.
- Active but small bubbles are another good sign.
- Look, too, for “legacy” flavours after the liquid part has gone; toastiness, freshness and, possibly, a little flintiness are all positives.
I hope you find them “present and correct” in this sextet of options.
In the usual way, pictures are used where possible to help you locate the bottle in question but there are no hyperlinks this time.
Starting in Spain
Cordorniu Cava Cuvee 150 Aniversario (£8.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 11.5% abv):
Despite being made in same way as champagne, Cava has been pushed into the background in recent years by the unstoppable march of prosecco.
So, consider this as a hugely successful fight back – rich and smooth yet by no means costing silly money.
If you usually walk past Cava displays, give this a try; I think you will be amazed.
Rich with creamy fragrances, it exhibits smooth, orchard fruit and marmalade flavours built with caressing, rather than energising, bubbles.
Those elements are neatly partnered by lime based acidic verve with yeasty influences and a trace of camomile emerging on the finish.
Doubling back to France
2022 Specially Selected Crémant Du Jura (£8.19 – instead of £10.99 until 31 December – at Aldi and 11.5%):
Crémant, is French sparkling wine made like champagne but from regions other than Champagne itself.
It does vary considerably in style and, I fear to say, in quality too.
However, this exclusively chardonnay version from Jura has been consistently good – even in drought influenced 2022.
Perhaps as a result of those tricky conditions, this does contain an extra mineral edge I do not recall in previous years.
Nevertheless, it remains centred around stylishly smooth, balanced apple and greengage flavours, embellished by grapefruit acidity.
Anything but ordinary prosecco
Pietra Fine Prosecco (£18 at WoodWinters and 12.5%):
Not all basic prosecco is brilliant but trading up to a superior version like this can show off how sensational quality versions can be.
This is from Asolo – the other DOCG area besides the better known Conegliano Valdobbiadene – and many argue that gives it an extra edge.
Soil, micro-climate and altitude are different in Asolo and that, combined with tight production regulations, seems to boost the wine’s complexity and distinctiveness.
With energetic bubbles and rich aromas, this example delivers minty apple and pithy greengage flavours.
Additional support comes in the shape of an acidic lemon buzz attractively counterbalanced by a saline mineral edge and suggestions of herbs.
Now to the Holy Trinity of grape varieties
M&S Graham Beck Cap Classique Rosé (£14 at Ocado and in some physical M&S stores and 12%):
Cap Classique is South Africa’s name for the “in-bottle fermentation” techniques that we know and love when they are used for champagne.
What is different though is the warmer climate there where the familiar trio of “champagne” grapes – used here incidentally – acquire more ripeness (hence flavours of soft fruit) but dial the acidity down a notch.
Here, then, aromas of soft fruit take you gently into a flavour range that includes raspberry, strawberry and red cherry components.
Its other constituents – vanilla and saline touches, gentle sweetness, active but controlled bubbles and a spicy twist – are all built into an enticing creamy texture.
Unusually, a little time to allow it to breathe really opens up this wine.
And so to Champagne itself
Les Pionniers Brut Champagne (£15 – instead of £21.50 until 24 December – for Co-op members and 12%):
I cannot fail to include what is, for inexpensive Champagne, one of the most consistent performers on the High Street.
It is made for the Co-op by a major Champagne House with a good stock of “reserve wines” and that helps it maintain its stable quality levels.
The result is a brilliantly balanced option, year on year, that regularly outperforms many higher priced rivals.
With small bubbles and a controlled mousse, its foundation is soft, cooked apple, peach and ripe melon flavours.
These are ably and meticulously combined with orange traces, toasty roundedness and firm lemon acidity to provide the balance so lauded a paragraph or two earlier.
And, for, in-house production.
Champagne Berthelot Piot (£22 – instead of £26 until 22 January – at Asda and 12.5%):
I know that some of you especially like champagnes made by the, often small-scale, producers who grow the grapes and make the resulting wine themselves.
Récoltant-Manipulant (or just RM) signifies most such wines where control of the entire process is in one set of hands.
Usually, that pushes prices up (no economies of scale) but this version ticks the individuality boxes at a keen price.
Floral and bready aromas mingle agreeably in the opening of this wine while its quince, tropical fruit and straw influences take over as you taste it.
There is a richness in its texture which includes black pepper and dough touches and where sharp lemon acidity brings everything to life.
Footnote from Santa’s Elves.
A bit of a price war is building up on budget level Champagnes.
So far, Lidl’s Comte de Senneval has dropped to £9.99 until 31 December and the Asda Louvel Fontaine Champagne Brut is also reduced to £9.99 (from £18) until 1 January.
Keep an eye open for others and report them via the Comments page please. Other MidWeekers will bless you for doing so.
Finally for 2024.
As usual, MidWeek Wines takes its Winter break now. Christmas is a time for drinking wine not reading about it and – in any event – folk will either have too much surplus wine left over (or the opposite with money) to buy much in January.
I expect to be back with Top Tip recommendations on 16 January.
Meanwhile, enjoy your own festivities and may I wish you a successful, happy (and, said with feeling!) healthy 2025.
…. And do keep in touch with wines you are currently drinking via the Comments page. MidWeekers love to hear about them.
