As ever, two recommendations for you today.
One is an unfamiliar – possibly even niche – red wine from Northern Italy that can be a little too simple sometimes, but here represents a solid choice.
Better still, it benefits from a 35%+ discount for most of this month.
But our consideration of the unexpected does not end there.
Any list of revived and reinvented grape varieties (Vinho Verde, Beaujolais etc) has a new member.
It was the mainstay of German wines that sold by the tanker in the Sixties and Seventies.
We thought its “day at the races” was past, but this change of country and dramatic one of style may tell us otherwise.
Read on for details of them both.
Adopting my traditional format, images and, where possible, hyperlinks accompany the assessments of the wines.
First that unusual Italian red.
2022 Venturina Freisa D’Asti (£6.99 – instead of £10.99 until 26 November – at Waitrose and 12.5% abv):
Freisa, mainly found in Italy’s Piemonte region, is a relatively little known but versatile grape which can, in clumsy hands, exhibit intrusive bitterness.
No such problem here, where it delivers light, fleshy unoaked red wine full of juicy, mouth-watering red fruits, and represents great value at £7.
Despite that summery lightness, this is suitable for year-round drinking – although gentle chilling is advised.
Do so, and you will enjoy wine based mainly on strawberry and cherry flavours which are neatly embellished with bright acidity, a stoney edge and slightly flowery aromas.
Staying in Italy
2023 Taste the Difference Müller-Thurgau (£8.50 in Sainsbury’s and 12%):
Many will remember müller-thurgau as the grape that formed the backbone of last century’s very basic Liebfraumilch.
Forget all the sweetness and lack of complexity and authenticity that implies.
This version, from Trentino in the Italian Alps, is a million times more sophisticated.
Engagingly bright and floral, it is centred around smooth melon, greengage and crunchy apple flavours.
These are accompanied by firm grapefruit acidity with just the merest hint of sweetness in the background.
The next post (on Thursday) represents the start of my four-part series of Christmas recommendations so join me then.
2 responses
Dear Reader,
I know many of you are enthralled by my digressions on things historical, scientific and especially alcohol duty; but I thought from time to time, I would enter the hallowed, mysterious world of the Circle of Wine Writers (with indulgence from Brian?) and write about wines that have impressed me – in some depth and with a dollop of research.
Last week I highlighted a great Greek white.
This week a Spanish beauty.
Far del Sud Garnatxa Blanca Terra Alta 2023 13% £8.50 Wine Society
“The Southern Lighthouse”where Spain’s longest river the Ebro* meets the Mediterranean sea in the Ebro Delta wetlands. A terrific organic Spanish dry white wine from a small rugged hilly region near Barcelona.
The winery, Herència Altés, is modern and virtually underground, powered by of solar panels; the local wine maker is Jamie Cluma, with help from a Languedoc luminary-Claude Gros.That’s how high they are aiming.
There are two winds ( Cerç and Garbi ) that doth blow and moderate the heat and keep vine pests/diseases at bay.
The Garnacha grapes are hand picked in tiny amounts which results in intense and complex flavours of peach , citrus and apricot with a long chalky refreshing brioche finish.
I used to work during student holidays at Cadburys in Chirk and detected cocoa butter on the nose, but definitely no oak and clear as a Roxy Music whistle.
Smooth, rounded and somehow? a hint of single Elmea. Garnacha Blanca putting its best foot forward.Extra points for stylish bottle label.
* Yes, the same river that flows through Rioja and nearly 1,000km long.
No indulgence needed from me. Your detailed and entertaining contributions are always welcome