Just as we started to feel that Lidl Wine Tours were getting into a rut, the retailer springs a nice surprise.
The November list includes four wines from some of the less well-known corners of Eastern Europe.
In earlier Wine Tours, Lidl brought us bottles from Hungary and its environs and put that area on the radar of drinkers of inexpensive wines.
Without it, would furmint have acquired the (thoroughly deserved) status it now enjoys?
So, it is heartening to see a light now being shone on Black Sea countries.
That does seem to be part of a trend to spread the net wider (geographically and with grape varieties) in the quest of good value.
Asda’s Wine Atlas, M&S Found, Sainsbury’s Discovery and Waitrose Lost & Found ranges all – in their different ways – maintain the same broad direction of travel.
Read on to see what I make of the Lidl wines in question.
As is normal here, pictures and hyperlinks are provided where possible to guide you straight to the right wine on shelf or web page.
Starting with those Eastern European wines.
2023 Bolgrad Duo (£7.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 12.5% abv):
This is white wine from Ukraine that confounds the Lidl MW scores because, to me, it outperforms the other two whites in the promotion.
It blends chardonnay with the local sukholimansky grape – a cross only developed in recent years from a marriage of a little-known Moldavian grape and (you guessed it) chardonnay.
Pale with captivating aromas, the result exhibits ripe pear, white plum and mango flavours.
These are neatly coupled with gentle acidity and a texture also containing honeysuckle and vanilla influences.
Staying in Ukraine.
2023 Bolgrad Saperavi (£7.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 14%):
The other Ukraine wine is red and uses saperavi – a low yielding, high acidity, firm tannin grape that is local to this general area.
In his Grapes & Wines book, Oz Clarke describes it as “a superb grape … just waiting for its moment in history to leap centre-stage.”
To my taste buds, this 2023 is preferable to the 2022 Saperavi – from Georgia and also in this Wine Tour – since its liveliness narrowly beats the maturity of that earlier vintage.
Opening with inviting fruity fragrances, the 2023 version delivers juicy black cherry, damson and blackberry flavours in a medium bodied texture.
Supporting those components come sharp acidity, modest tannin and a lingering finish with hints of allspice, caramel and vanilla.
Next something more familar
2020 Chateau Moulin de Trafford (£ 8.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 13%)
Cru Bourgeois on the label indicates that this is one of a group of vineyards assembled centuries ago by a consortium of Bordeaux merchants.
Today, it is simply a good indicator of reliable claret – and ones that are usually reasonably priced (such as this and Aldi’s Chateau Les Trois Manoirs at £8.49).
With typical claret aromas of autumn leaves with a sprinkling of fruit, this is based around smooth blackcurrant, prune and menthol flavours.
These are coupled with good acidity, firm tannin and hints of aniseed, graphite, violets and smokiness.
And, with Bordeaux connections
2022 Brisandes Cabernet Sauvignon (£ 8.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 14%):
Although the name Domaines Barons de Rothschild is most famously associated with Bordeaux, the operation has properties elsewhere in France and beyond.
This is one such estate shrewdly selected to take advantage of the increasingly fashionable wine production capability of Chile’s Colchagua Valley.
It is a nicely crafted cabernet sauvignon with a balance of depth, flavours and background rarely found at this price point.
Dark with lustre and clarity, it brings us complex plum and mulberry flavours embellished with a charcoal and cedar savoury edge.
Additional components on display are fairly robust tannin – but with carefully balanced acidity – and touches of mint, black pepper, dark chocolate and vanilla.
And my top choice “Black Sea” option.
2023 Salcuta Feteasca Neagra (£7.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 14.5%):
Next, we are re-acquainted with a grape we first met in Romania but this version is from over the border in Moldova.
That country is a big producer of wine – and usually provided the finest bottles in the Kremlin in the days of the Soviet Union.
It is the dark skinned version of the feteasca regala grape that captivates many MidWeekers with its lovely white wines.
Dark with floral fragrances, this red option exhibits soft blackcurrant and plum flavours, carries its abv effortlessly and is enlivened here by bold acidic vibrancy.
That backbone is very effectively combined with smooth tannin, chocolate and anise elements but with a savoury edge to add contrast.
Two snippets you may have missed
Solving an old problem?
I was feeling good after an enjoyable wine tasting event and smiled warmly at the others in my train carriage.
They all recoiled in horror.
The reason …. purple teeth!
Tasting – even with spitting – leaves an unmistakable “legacy” that is hard to clear quickly.
Intriguing, then, to read Drinks Business piece about America’s McBride Sisters Wine Company.
The company has collaborated with Colgate to create gift sets containing both red wine and a solution to any staining it might cause.
That second part is two Colgate Optic White Overnight Whitening Pens and a compact mirror.
These, the publicity material contends, should tackle “worries of dimming your dazzling smile”.
Only available in the US so far, I think, it could be something for Christmases “still to come”.
Meanwhile, I shall maintain a miserable old grouch aura by avoiding post-tasting smiles.
Still working wonders?
The same publication reveals that the list of drinks-based revivals has just acquired a new member.
Allsopp’s Brewery is reintroducing Double Diamond – a Pale Ale that sold 50 million pints a year back in the Sixties.
It fell out of favour, though, and was finally scrapped in 2003.
This new version draws on a 1922 recipe but tweaks it with help from the well-known citra and columbus hops.
I am not sure that original sweetness will have mass appeal these days, but perhaps the new recipe gives it a significantly different taste profile.
Double Diamond 2.0 is only available in selected pubs in London and Burton on Trent.
If you encounter it, let us all know what you think – the full article can be found here, by the way.
No post next Thursday but it will be business as usual on this coming Monday and the one after.
24 responses
I didn’t see the Rothschild wine on Lidl’s website – will take a look.
The hyperlink on this site may help there. It is wine worth seeking out
At last- interesting wines at Lidl!
Wrexham lager- the drink of my youth- now has Hollywood A star backers.
There is no sugar coating that the 2024 Budget was awful for the wine industry and wine drinkers.
The last Tory government passed legislation that in February 2025 there would be a new regime of alcohol duty, which basically means most wines and spirits will have increases in alcohol duty for every 0.1 increase in alcohol levels.The net effect will be the alcohol duty take will be bigger.The present Labour government, despite ( muted?) representations, has gone ahead with the legislation.
But please remember that VAT at 20% is then levied on the increased alcohol duty.So together the alcohol duty and VAT tax is very high.
Some brave souls pointed out that the new system is convoluted, complex, costly, unbelievably bureaucratic and will push up prices without any solid evidence of reducing alcohol harm.
I think I am right to say that the Wine Society estimates that the changes will cost it £600,000 to enact.
We must take in the bigger picture.The U.K. has the third highest level of alcohol duty in the whole of Europe.Many other European countries have no alcohol duty or minimal amounts.Nearly two thirds of the total alcohol duty in the 28 European countries is collected by just one country- the U.K.
There are three additional kickers- as from Feb 2025, an inflation levy of 2.7% will also be added to all non draught alcohol duty.This inflation element is likely to be an annual event and with the OBR predicting the government will not meet its 2% inflation target until 2029, be prepared for hefty annual increases.
The second kicker is the on going bureaucracy, delays and extra costs caused by Brexit.
The third kicker is minimum alcohol unit pricing in Scotland and Wales that can be increased anytime on a whim.
What can we do as individuals?
We could write to our MPs, but the new Labour MP for Wrexham has not replied to my email.
I think the only way this will change is if tax receipts from alcohol go down.
There are imaginative ways to ensure this happens, but some involve having space and the wherewithal to buy high alcohol wines with a long drinking window before February, particularly if they are on offer.
We are also very lucky at MWW to have a great consumer champion in Brian.
Flattered and grateful by the description in the final line but I fear I am as frustrated about what to do as everyone else. The only glimmer of hope is that 10%-11% alcohol wines are slowly getting better – lower than that and texture still seems to be thrown out with the alcohol.
Wow,the power of MWW posts?
Two hours after posting I had a very belated reply from the Wrexham MP.Which did not deny any of the above but made much of the 1p per draught pint reduction for hospitality.Surely the thinnest of gossamer thin fig leafs?
Exactly. One word here … and nothing very much happens!
Thank you, that was very informative.
Hi Brian, Good selection there, I like the sound of all of those, especially the ‘Salcuta’ I think a trip to Lidl is on the cards, soon.
Purple Teeth – Whenever I do a tasting now, I find starting with reds help, I’ve noticed a significant difference in staining when I do it this way, ( the whites almost act as a rinse) and to be honest it works better, after the reds the whites are a refreshing change and I find I can evaluate much better this way, it works for me!
Ind Coope Double Diamond – Saw this the other day, brought back a lot of memories ( ‘Works Wonders’ and ‘Only here for the Beer’) not sure I’ll be drinking it though, although I may try a half just to see how it’s changed. Problem for me is the Burton on Trent water they use, tends to be very hard, (Burtonized Water).
Good suggestion Dave that works on several levels despite being counter intuitive.
I suggested earlier in the week here at MWW to correspondent NielW that he may like to take a look in the 27/5/24 archive for a source of some Jurançon Sec that he likes. We can see Sainsbury’s have a Taste The Difference item at £9. Currently do a TTD deal for any 3 bottles and get 25% off.
But here’s another Sainsbury’s bottle and a surprising one at that on the face of things, that popped up in November Decanter magazine in the cheaper-end, Weekday Wines section.
Sainsbury’s House range Soave at £4.75 gets honourable mention. Rare it is for such a cheap wine to make it into these listings, though not unique. Except if we look at the labelling of this Veneto-Italian old favourite, DOC quality gets mentioned and could be a pointer towards higher provenance. Reminds us we should check labels and know what we are reading especially about cheaper-end stuff to get a surprise about quality and better value for money.
OK, the Veneto gives the world a hell of a lot of this lighter-end white, it’s not as if there isn’t much up for consideration and we know over-production might affect quality. But this one has come up trumps apparently.
Elsewhere in Decanter there’s more interesting chat from ex Naked Wines marketing director and co-founder of Laylo, Laura Riches, about none-bottles i.e. cans and boxes, the latter we are told accounting in France for 40% of supermarket wine sales that on one side I find astonishing but on the other remember all those boxes even 25 years ago tucked away under bottom shelves.
The French have gone for it. Not so here, as much. But then I think the French are happier with a single glass of wine or small carafe from a reservoir source like a box with their meal and not opening bottles they feel they need to finish off every time. Apparently boxed wine comes in at around 44% over there and us at 5-6%. But cans here are certainly on the up. I want those M&S rosé fizz ones soon to try.
The House range at Sainsbury’s, certainly entry level stuff mostly, has always been supremely affordable, and the Soave maintains things at this lowly price-point. Variable as well of course. But the eagle-eyed amongst us will spot there’s a 2.25l box of this Soave BUT it sells at £15 that makes the 75cl bottle a much better buy pro-rate. Never worry, this bottled Soave is not so ”delicate” that it won’t survive with its cap on for several days in the fridge door. BUT , bring on a price reduction of that box and I’d buy one!
Newest Lidl Tour I started on last week and took a bottle of the Georgian Bediani Saperavi £7.99, 87/100 points. The promo’ does say it’s ”one for lovers of Chianti Reserva”. I wonder if they mean their own C-R here that has long been a go-to for many mid-weekers, some vintage by vintage variation since we first got the 2015 and it was a WOTW reduced back then to an astonishing £4.49 … Always excellent of its style, bold, perfumed and big hearted.
So personally here I think the Sangiovese would be the better purchase at its money than Georgia’s signature grape, Saperavi. That 87/100 maybe tells a story about a tiny bit of something not quite there. I found it a little austere like under-ripe cabernet, but with the right food it was perfectly agreeable and I was happy to experiment…. one time! To be honest I wish I’d gone for the Sălcuta Fetească Neagră. Next time maybe …
Gotta reinvent my under-age drinking experience too of 60 years ago with some Double Diamond! Not the best beer ever but the day the buffet finally closed at Middlesbrough railway station was as sad as yesterdays tRump experience.
Hi Eddie,
The other Weekday Wine recommended in the new edition of Decanter I thought was worth pursuing was the L’Empreinte Lirac Rouge from Lirac in the southern Rhóne. They gave it 91 and a great write-up. It’s listed in December as £13.99 in Waitrose but, if anyone is interested in giving it a go, it’s currently £3 off and just £10.99 until 12 November.
(PS. I seem to recall that you’re nowhere near a Waitrose Eddie, but others might be interested.)
I remember Fiona Beckett mentioning the subject of “red wine teeth” in her excellent “Eat This, Drink That, Live Well” Substack. She often went on to a lunch after a morning wine tasting, and started doing red wines first, to be more presentable.
For some time I have been doing red wines first. Most people tend to start at the beginning, which is usually white or fizz – so starting with reds is less crowded. But more importantly, I buy more red than white wines, and my average spend on red wines is higher. So starting on reds, whilst “fresh”, makes sense. Checking on CellarTracker, 22% of my currently stored wires are white, 73% reds (and 5% fizz or fortified). I guess that if I were to eat less meat and more fish, I would drink more white. But, perhaps controversially, I find that, ON BALANCE, I find more variety and complexity (hence more interest) in red than white wine. Is this a common view amongst MidWeekers?
Great title today Brian. I’m all for spreading the net wider into hidden corners of the wine producing world and we should be grateful that big retailers have the buying power to seek out a bargain. Strikes me Saperavi is now well into ‘taking the leap to centre stage’ and other examples such as Majestic’s Tbilvino Saperavi and the one in the M&S Found series get good reviews too, although costing a little more than Lidl’s Ukrainian bottle.
The hidden corner I’m hoping one of the high street players will get to soon is Moravia, the wine producing area of Czechia (Czech Republic) bordering Austria and Slovakia. Having ‘maxed out’ on beer the last time I was in Prague I resorted to wine with meals and thoroughly enjoyed Pálava, an aromatic white wine (a cross between Müller-Thurgau and Gewurztraminer) and red Cabernet Morovia (a fruity hybrid of Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt).
Hello Richard …. Keith …..
Truth is that Waitrose in north east England is rare. The couple of stores that are here too far away for me to ever shop in one. I prefer to avoid commenting on what I don’t know. The only exception being when I’m with family in the south I might buy something appropriate at Waitrose to share there or bring home. And that said, my son and his son are not wine drinkers so only 3 out of 5 people take wine at that tea table.
Brings me to this business of white, rosé or red and the complexities specifically involved with the latter. Ask both my wife and DIL who do share with me and they will generally say only if they enjoy what’s in their glass. They don’t dissect it as I might. Only one in five people in this instance have any deeper interest in the wider aspect of wine appreciation.
But Britain has little wine producing or drinking culture like the French have it in spades by comparison, and I generally defer to them on so much to do with opinion and all else wine.
Statistically we know the French over 2 to 3 generations have gone from a strong red wine drinking culture to a greater preference for whites. Now rosé supersedes both based on published sales figures. Wow!!! What’s that all about? I’d argue probably nothing to do with appreciation of complexity over and above people voting with their feet for little more than personal, subjective preference without overthinking matters.
There will be other factors attaching I’m sure including high and variation in alcohol levels, and subsequent health issues, driving laws, costs as well, but in the main the choice comes down at grass roots level to what floats anybodies boat more.
I’m not immune here either. I think complexity of reds only really exists in the main in more expensive purchases. At least ”sweet-spot” £15 bottles. I also don’t believe whites and indeed rosés are any less complex at their often lower price levels but still I don’t think either that people in pubs, restaurants or on holiday look towards complex elements in whatever they choose to drink. What they do is order appropriately and when it comes say … nice or not! Then if they get let down less infrequently with whites/rosés over and above reds they start to gravitate whichever way they remember being the better experience. The French in some way have turned their traditional selection on its head, as British discernment does its own thing!
Who would have thought 30-40 years ago in Britain we would become the cocktail era we are now? Who would have guessed a big move away from cloying, wine-bar Oz chardy to dry Pinot Grigio, Chilean and NZ-SBs? Or that prosecco could rule so positively.
Is it all marketing or must we give the public credit for knowing what they like and sticking to it rather than succumbing to getting told what they should prefer based on notional perception of complexity they likely don’t relate to anyway?
If Decanter will come up with a £4.75 Soave as a credible purchase and Asda have some exceptional, cheap, signature Wine Atlas whites as they do then my racks at home will have way more whites and rosés to choose from than say 10-15 years ago when it was almost all inexpensive red stuff. The reds I do have tend to be more towards that sweet spot area these days.
Just to finish can I point folks back to Lidl and the current Wine Tour. I have been buying the DeLuxe range South African Chenin Blanc on offer at £5.45 down from £6.45 for the last 2 weeks, finished now unfortunately. It is very enjoyable drinking, exceptionally well made and strongly characterised in the best way southern hemisphere CB can be.
In the Wine Tour they have a partner DeLuxe range bottle of SA Chenin with added Rousanne and Marsanne. Again this is really terrific drinking and I am bringing home more of that for the ”cellar”.
Best to all …
I am lucky as the Chester Waitrose has the largest wine section in the UK.I have found the staff very friendly,helpful and knowledgeable.I have also heard good things about Waitrose Cellar on line and the wines, when on offer, are in my opinion, often higher quality than Aldi and Lidl at the same prices.
I have found Waitrose Cellar excellent, Paul.
Oops…..first time I’ve had to disagree about a wine here. The Lidl Bolgrad Duo white……not sure if we drank the same wine! Coarse flavours with a nasty aftertaste. Tasted like cheapest stuff around. Oh well.
Never hesitate about expressing a contrary opinion, Sue. I may not get it right every time. However, what you describe sounds more like a defective bottle – where a bitter aftertaste is quite often apparent. Can anyone else come in with their experiences so others can make up their minds about whether to try it. Sorry that you were disappointed though Sue – always a bit of a bummer.
Here are some hard facts about the costs of the new alcohol duty regime from Feb 2025.
I did previously write that the alcohol duty went up in increments of 0.1 % and whilst that it is mathematically true,in practice,the alcohol duty is levied in 0.5% increments.
So there are five headings ,first is alcohol level, then cost at August 23 to Jan 25 is the second number,then the third is from 1st Feb 25 split into UK duty and the fourth is including VAT and finally the fifth is the percentage increase in an 18 month period.
Still here?
15% abv,£3.21,£3.33 and £4, 49% increase.
13% abv £2.67,£2.87 and £3.44, 29% increase
11% abv £2.35,£2.44 and £2.93, 9% increase
Remember VAT is added to the wine AND the alcohol duty.Graph was courtesy of Gavin Quinney.
Apparently since this regime was thought up by Rishi Sunak and continued by Labour and is causing the big wine industry boys to reduce alcohol levels in well known brands,these are now called by some wags as Rishi wines.
PS I seem to have posted this on an earlier MWW post.I blame sinusitis.
PPS
I don’t think these figures include the 2.7% inflation add on.Happy days are here again!!!
The Brisandes is from a fave Chilean winery Vina Los Vascos, whose wines I’ve enjoyed for decades. The Brisandes will keep for a bit as well. Glad a brought 3 and going back for more!
Thanks Steve and welcome to the Comments section. That wine impressed me too – and judging by the stores hereabouts, is not selling as quickly as the Eastern European options.
Tried the Feteasca. Good but nothing special IMO . Have to agree with you on the Duo – much better than an 87. I suspect you are right that Sue (posted above) had a defective bottle. I don’t often comment on here but I have a glass of the Duo on my desk now and was inspired to post because it is one of the cleanest whites I have had this year. Fragrant and perfumed – pretty much as you described. I would never have guessed Chardonnay though. Reminds me a little of the Coto de Ibedo {treixadura / loureira / godello blend) from Lidl which you recommended back in February which has been my favourite white find this year (I helped clear the local branch stock!)
Glad we are in accord on the Duo – and a bit sad that Sue appears to have had a duff bottle of it. You seem in line with Richard on that red and it may be that my enjoyment of that lighter stye has gilded the lily for me – although Decanter did award it 89 points. That is one of the joys of wine – there are no definitive right answers.
Do keep contributing your thoughts, though, multiple opinions do make the MidWeekers tribe stronger.